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hey

when i did an oil change today

i thought id notice where the oil pressure guage sat on the dash

i remember before it was over a qtr

cause it gos 0 qtr 4 qtr 8

after i dumped the oil

i started it up and it went to 4

once it got warm tho it sat at qtr for goin full on

and just above 0 when idle

i turned off the car after goin to my gf's then we went out 30 mins later

and it sat between qtr and 4 the whole time (not driving hard)

and its like that now

the oil i used before was pennzoil gt semi synth 10-40 and it would of had mixed in some valvoline xld 20-50 shit that the stupid mechanics put in before i got my car (he said ooh its turbo rated its fine we cant afford better stuff and they do all this yards cars once imported)

when i did the first change i noticed it idled way better and ran smoother

with this new batch of oil its the same but i didnt take notice of the oil pressure till now

the new oil is shell helix eco10 10-30 semi synth

just need some advice thats all :P

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I've tried damn near every so called good brand of oil out there except for the "really expensive" stuff like Mobil 0 and I've settled with Penzoil Full Synthetic 5W-50. According to Nissan, the correct weight of oil required for an RB engine is 7.5W-40 and that's what some of the Nissan dealers in Sydney have in the bottles marked with the nissan and GT-R logo.

As for the oil pressure, I've seen heaps of turbo nissan's that read next to zero pressure on the gauge ( mine included ). Almost every time, when the pressure is checked at the oil pressure switch, it's fine. Inside the Oil Pressure gauge is a red light which is on before starting. Should this come on while driving, you've got a problem.

Guest RedLineGTR

Personally i wouldnt use any other shell oil for a turbo car than. SHell Helix Ultra (grey bottle) ratign 5-40w oil pressure up to factory specs and runs fine, runs cooler than other engine oils i have tryed. Depends on the condition on the engine you might go for a 10-40w rating. try Motul oils some a semi-synth.

Guest RedLineGTR

Also try the search on this site. If not try it in google under "oil myths" usally they have some decent info about oils and how to choose the right one. It also comes down to your budget. If i had the money i would be using Redline Oils 3.8litres for like $110 bucks...

  • 3 weeks later...
Guest Jason Abz

If its any new news to you mate, the oil sendors on the 32 are notorius for giving weird readings!! I sh*t myself the first time mine dropped to zero. Ask any of tuners and garages and they will tell you about the amount of faulty sendor units they have exchanged on the 32. You just have to get over the mental worry of looking at the guage dropping every so often when you know there is nothing wrong. I would imagine it must be the same if you had a faulty petrol gauge, even though you filled up 5 mins before, you would always be wondering!!

jas

engine oil pressures are as follows :rb25de idling (650rpm )1.0kg/cm, 2000 rpm3.3 , 6000 rmp 5.3 .

rb25det 1.0 , 3.5 , and 5.6 .

rb 26 dett idle ( 950 rpm )1.5 , 2000 3.0, 6000 4.6 .

a lot of gauges are not reading right as well as crook senders , to be sure u have to install a gauge that u know is right .

when the oil is cold u always going to have higher oil pressure , always check at normal operating temp..

by the way i use shell ultra 5w 40 ( cause i can buy it cheap $ 39 ) i use to use mobil 1 but its to expensive now so i swiched to shell .

Let me add to the general concensus that R32 oil gauges just make up whatever value they thinks sound good and display it on the dashboard in a haphazard fashion.

If I were to put an oil pressure (aftermarket) in I would like it to measure as close as possible to the oil pressure in cylinder no 6 (right at the firewall)

I have seen over 10 Skyline motors throw a leg out of number six....it is their achilles heel.

mildman u r right if u race rb26's and u dont put extra baffles in the sump thats where u 'll have the problem in no 6 big end bearing . the pump will surge and first u'll kill no 6 the end of the line .

they dont have probs with the oil pumps though just the pick up running dry .

Under heavy load and G forces the oil in the sump does not get adequately delivered to cylinder 6. The one at the fire wall. As wrxhoon recommends the sump should be baffled to ensure that is doesn't essentially run dry as all the oil is squeezed into the back or front under heavy acceleration/braking G's.

A friend of mine stuck on oil cooler in as well to increase the survival chances of no 6.

No probs, there are special baffled sumps that you can buy - the even have one way doors in them - so the oil can flow through one way but not the other.

Baffled sumps are expensive - but are the best insurance if you are going to do circuit racing....but for normal street driving it is not really a requirement.

How do you get access to the oil pressure switch? i know where it is located.. havent seen it yet.. but im going to install an autometre gauge.. just wondering how to get to it.. And also.. what do you mean by installing a guage at cylinder no.6? Do you mean tapping into the block with a barb etc with the oil guage running directly off that? Cause im thinking of running two gauges.. with the hp were looking at running.. i want to keep exact track of my oil pressure.. Also, the oil pressure light on the dash, how does that work? i was thinking of making a seperate warning light which would be located on the pilar or whatever, to tell me of low pressure etc.. maybe locate it with cylinder no.6.. you get my idea? So, if pressure does drop.. it will indicate before damage could happen. thanks..

the oil pressure switch is located on the oil filter bracket .u cant install a gauge on number 6 .h/p is not the problem with the oil pressure , as i said before the prob is when racing the g forces push the oil and the pick up runs dry then no oil .if u r not going to race it no probs .oil pressure light on the dash works from the oil pressure switch which acts as a sender .the reson no 6 goes first is cause its the end of the line .cause pressure gauges are slow to react and cause u dont look at them all the time by the time u see it drop pressure it maybe to late!!! u usualy hear it fist ( the bearings knocking ) there is a co in sydney that makes baffles for the rb 26 i think they are around the $600 and u give them yours ( all they do they put extra baffles in yours ) .

jerry

I'd say $600 is quite a reasonable price to for that type of work, if you look at racing sumps they start at more likely twice that price. I've seen some advertised..somewhere..for well over $5000!

My gut feelings tell me though that if you are dragging it is not as important as if you were circuit racing. In my experience - seeing 3 RB's go boom at the track, that were all at high speed cornering tracks - eg Phillip Island.

So the lateral G seems to have a much higher propensity to cause no.6 big end bearing drama, rather than just going in straight lines really quick.

mildman u r right cause it only takes a few secs to run the 1/4 . circuit racing u have more g forces , both braking and eccelarating , for prolong periods .

i have seen afew rb26's that have spun no 6 on the track though

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