Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just thinking is it worth the $800 for a remap?,has any one heard of engine failure due to this?..just wana do the righty by my engine...thanks

by the way the car is running 10psi,and has a big fuel pump,i have been giving her a bit of a thrashing lately, hope ive done no damage......

just thinking is it worth the $800 for a remap?,has any one heard of engine failure due to this?..just wana do the righty by my engine...thanks

it might be ok. i was running a stock r33 rb25 turbo on my rb20 and untuned it was leaning out slightly on 13psi above 5500rpm. only to like 13.5:1 afr. your running less boost so it might not be leaning out too much but i think its best to get it atleast checked with a wideband o2 sensor just to know whats going on.

but if you really want to do right for your engine go for a remap, if not a safc.

it will b ok as the afm will compensate for the extra volume of air entering the engine. although u will find it will b running a lil lean as the boost has been raised. but it will do this even with the stock turbo. fittin a apexi SAFC-2 will fix this n b cheaper than a remap. it will also give u more top end power as the a/f ratio will b at a more power productive level. remember tuning is the most important aspect of the power and engine makes. an engine could hav all the bolt on's in the world but its the amount of fuel and air, and when it is ignited that makes the power

Absolutely fine, I ran my RB20 with a series1 33 turbo for nearly a year on 12psi and regular heavy beatings :D

Oh and unless your fuel pump is dying (which it's likely not as you say it's got a bigger one) it's likely running rich as opposed to lean, what an SAFC will do for you is a cheap way to lean it out a bit and gain some more top end power.

I didn't bother with any of that shit and waited till I got the 30 in before I got it tuned properly (remap).

Edited by bubba

I am about to put in a RB25 turbo from an R34 on to my RB20, and I was advised to get it tuned straight away as it will throw out all the air to fuel ratios......

If you boost the RB25 turbo to 12-14 psi, i would be a little concerned about it leaning out......

Edited by Douse
I am about to put in a RB25 turbo from an R34 on to my RB20, and I was advised to get it tuned straight away as it will throw out all the air to fuel ratios......

If you boost the RB25 turbo to 12-14 psi, i would be a little concerned about it leaning out......

it will but not by much. the extra flow will be picked up by the afm and the ecu will do its best. like i posted earlier i was seeing afr's of around 13:1 on 13psi, so not too bad.

My 20 w/25 turbo with stock fuel pump was seeing around 13.5:1 but boy did it go like a shower of shit heh.

Was pretty lean so did the fuel pump and untuned it made 246rwhp (@12psi) so I was pretty happy.

A tune will pretty much get rid of some of the lag (by smashing in timing down low) but I didnt see the need at that level, I preferred to save my money for the 30+bits.

Edited by bubba

i ran a 34 neo turbo on my redtop 20 for ages with no tune, was very very rich, when it did go on the dyno the afr's dropped of the scale to below 10:1

got an old style safc tuned on it and picked up 50hp and heaps better fuel economy:)

hey guys while the suject is up i also put a r33 stock turbo on my rb20 and its untuned i havnt been thashing it but whenever i do give it some it has no power since the new turbo is that normal

Edited by ACTIV32
No that's not normal, can you quantify "no power"?

yer well the power is probally equal to a stock r32 with its original turbo

i put it in my self and i checked everything twice i dunno, bizzare

i thought you had to get a tune for it to start giving th correct boost

Yeah did you use the actuator off your original turbo or off the new turbo?

R33 actuator is 5psi, R32 is 10psi. If you are using the R33 actuator and do not have a boost controller of some sorts then yes, it will feel rather gutless :thumbsup:

Yeah did you use the actuator off your original turbo or off the new turbo?

R33 actuator is 5psi, R32 is 10psi. If you are using the R33 actuator and do not have a boost controller of some sorts then yes, it will feel rather gutless :rofl:

well there is my problem i was going to use the old acuator but i think thats whats blew up my stock turbo and yer t is stock cheers for the help guys

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...