Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all im about to import myself a stagea im on a tight budget and looking around has given me an indication that vehicles with close to or over 100,00km's are much cheaper than those with under 100,000km. I was wondering if someone could shed some light on this obviously the 100,000km service would be due but is there anything else that would need to be done on top of this service to warrant the price difference ie turbo rebuilds and stuff like that or any other parts that are prone to failure at these km's.

I want to buy the vehicle and still have a little bit of change left to do some mods or would i be better off buying a bog stock low km and saving up to do mods later on?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216994-about-to-hunt-down-a-stagea/
Share on other sites

Assuming you'd be looking at a Manual, Turbo, 1998 model with about 82,000 kms (see http://tradecarview.com/stock/detail.aspx?sid=1014730 for example) it'd be about 900,000 FOB, which using our online quote calculator comes to $17,100 fully complied (includes our $1,100 fee already, just needs rego).

Obviously costs will vary depending on the factors involved (year, kms, manual/auto).

contact us for more info.

cheers,

david @ Carizma

Also, the 100k thing isn't related to anything other than the perception. The Stagea market is more influenced by the export market than domestic Japanese market pressures.

And if you're looking for an Automatic, the prices would be a lot cheaper.

Hi all im about to import myself a stagea im on a tight budget and looking around has given me an indication that vehicles with close to or over 100,00km's are much cheaper than those with under 100,000km. I was wondering if someone could shed some light on this obviously the 100,000km service would be due but is there anything else that would need to be done on top of this service to warrant the price difference ie turbo rebuilds and stuff like that or any other parts that are prone to failure at these km's.

I want to buy the vehicle and still have a little bit of change left to do some mods or would i be better off buying a bog stock low km and saving up to do mods later on?

Please specify what type of Stagea you require and your budget, we can advise on whats available.

cheers

Nigel

worth having a look at whats available here, if you just want to keep it std sure import, but generally most guys spend heaps on mods once they get them, so theres a good chance you can find a sound sensibly modded stag here in oz for under say $18 grand...... when you look at a $12 grand import and then start mods it adds up real quick,

just my 2 bobs worth.

....and always add $1,000-2,000 to the price they tell you.

Most brokers are honest, but like real estate agents, they usually quote prices that are a bit too good to be true.

I've imported my last 3 cars & I recommend it to people, but go in with your eyes open & don't expect to pay the figure they tell you, because that rarely, if ever, happens.

It WILL cost you significantly more to get your car on the road.

Good luck.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...