Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok so i came across this thread on G35driver..

http://g35driver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=199456

and it turns out that in the USA, all G35's that have power seats have the heater elements pre-wired into them!

all you have to do is find the plug under the centre console and plug in the OEM switches and the heaters work

note that this is on the sedan in the above thread

so i was thinking, i wonder if the seat setup is the same for the V35? i know that heated seats were offered on the 70th anniversary V35's

it would be easy for us to simply use fast to see if there are different part numbers for the different seats. if not, and they have the same part number then its probably simply that the seat is the same but usign a different cover for the 70th anniversary seats

i have ordered a set of the switches from the USA but unfortunately i cannot find the said plugs in my car as they are pictured on the sedans in the above thread. i am hoping they are jammed away in a hidden spot somewhere or slightly different for the coupe.

maybe someone else can pull their centre console off to have a look if they have the plugs?

let's hope we have unlocked a nice hidden secret here!

cheers,

Warren

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217106-heated-seats-on-all-v35s/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ok so i came across this thread on G35driver..

http://g35driver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=199456

and it turns out that in the USA, all G35's that have power seats have the heater elements pre-wired into them!

all you have to do is find the plug under the centre console and plug in the OEM switches and the heaters work

note that this is on the sedan in the above thread

so i was thinking, i wonder if the seat setup is the same for the V35? i know that heated seats were offered on the 70th anniversary V35's

it would be easy for us to simply use fast to see if there are different part numbers for the different seats. if not, and they have the same part number then its probably simply that the seat is the same but usign a different cover for the 70th anniversary seats

i have ordered a set of the switches from the USA but unfortunately i cannot find the said plugs in my car as they are pictured on the sedans in the above thread. i am hoping they are jammed away in a hidden spot somewhere or slightly different for the coupe.

maybe someone else can pull their centre console off to have a look if they have the plugs?

let's hope we have unlocked a nice hidden secret here!

cheers,

Warren

That looks like a great little mod if it works! I would investigate but haven't got my car yet :yes:

i know it sounds great

i am really dissapointed that i couldn't find the splugs under my console now

but i'm hoping skizo clears up the seat issue as if the seat has all the hardware already then its going to be easy to wire up a switch whether its got a connection on the loom or not..

i know it sounds great

i am really dissapointed that i couldn't find the splugs under my console now

but i'm hoping skizo clears up the seat issue as if the seat has all the hardware already then its going to be easy to wire up a switch whether its got a connection on the loom or not..

As Chris confirmed that there do has a plug under, I am really thinking order a pair of swith:)

i know, its frustrating that jon's are right in front of your eyes!

even all the pics that i have seen of cars on g35driver they are all very visible, be it coupe or sedan, although its been impossible to find any exposed dash pics on g35driver..

eg this pic, although this car already has the switches as standard: http://g35ipod.com/images/install/25.jpg

i might have another look tomorrow. it seems the correct part of the loom runs down the passenger side of the console. but failing that, i might have to leave it for you in a few weeks time chris..

in th meantime, everyone else go have a lok to see if you have the plugs!

less typing, more searching!

The link you provided is the same one I read only a few days ago. My thoughts were that the seats were a bit of an unknown as in the example used were swapped seats.

Did I miss something?

yeah you are getting confused - there were 2 similar posts about this on g35 driver..

but the crux of this thread was that they found that the loom and heating elements are already there in the STANDARD seats as long as they were the power seats and not the manually operated seats

this is on the sedans anyway, and jons car (also sedan) has the plugs poking you in the face when you look at it

i'm hoping that on the coupe they are tucked away somewhere but to be honest it didn't look like it when i had a brief look earlier today

jon,

if yo get me the switches I'll set it up. in the mean time I'll work yours out. if they are there then you are not swapping seats are you

:laugh:

Hmmmm..heated seats....leather seats....heated seats...leather seats...nah I think I'll have both thanks!

No. but i have one of these...... will it do?

post-49637-1209554674_thumb.jpg

NO!!

they are good for popping airbags. think there are 8 or so on these so I would only use a meter in them. if it is a LED one then that is a different story. still prefer a meter.

jon,

I'm bored so I'm tearing yours to bits.

hey mate,

looks like a sedan?

were they just sitting there or hidden?

Yes its a sedan, and yes they were hidden underneath the black air-con vent that goes to the rear. Had to rip off some tape and pull the wires out, I could feel the plugs though so I knew they were there.

Fingers crossed that this will work. I was so disappointed that my car didn't come with heated seats.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...