Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Items for sale:

- R34 GTR exhaust

- R33 Rims - 2 sets - maybe three, if i end up buying buddy clubs p1s of a member on here.. then will sell another set..

- R33 Exhaust - Jasma approved

- R33 Series 2 mats - the black n white looking ones. david jones style lol

- Spraco Drift Steering Wheel

- R33 GTR Vspec Diff

Item: R34 Gtr exhaust - Stainless steel - Catback

Age: Few years old

Condition: Excellent

Price: $800

To Fit: (What car) R34 GTR.. To fit gtt, you will need 33 cat most likley

Location: Sydney

Contact: PM me

Comments:

Stainless steel- Jasma Approved.

post-12579-1210045825_thumb.jpg post-12579-1210045866_thumb.jpg

Item: R33 Stock Rims - 2 SET!!

Age: Many years old

Condition: Excellent

Price: $500 for the ones with brand new rubbers.. worth 100 each... 2nd - $250

To Fit: (What car) 5 stud Cars

Location: Sydney

Contact: PM me

Comments:

1set - BRAND new rubbers in 205/55/16s - Antyres (brand)

2set - Potenza g3s - maybe 40-50% thread left

Pic1: 1st set

post-12579-1210046003_thumb.jpg

Wouldnt let me attach more pics.

Will add more items in next post!!

Edited by siddr20
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217968-fair-few-parts-for-3334s/
Share on other sites

Item: R33 Exhaust - Jasma approved.

Age: Dont know

Condition: Excellent

Price: $200

To Fit: (What car) R33s

Location: Sydney

Contact: PM me

Pics:

post-12579-1210046386_thumb.jpg post-12579-1210046570_thumb.jpg

Item: R33 Series 2 MATS

Age: 10 years perhaps?

Condition: Excellent - might just need a quick wash tho!!

Price: $150

To Fit: (What car) R33

Location: Sydney

Contact: PM me

Pics:

Edited by siddr20
  • 3 weeks later...
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you pay with a credit card? I'd be putting a charge back through then finding a new sparky to sort it out. 
    • If you mean the alarm immobiliser; theyre internal to the alarm itself which makes that difficult; I couldnt even see where he put it; its not in the same place as last time; but with all black wiring it might be very challenging to trace  I had someone turn the key for me as I know it only primes for a couple of seconds As my post above; I am getting no voltage to the pump at all; but I am testing continuity of the power line (SB) from the pump plug to the relay fine. As well as the negative from the pump plug to a 12V constant.    Yeah; he blammed the no start on a bad battery; said I needed to get a new battery and it'll start. Turns out the battery drained because the tail lights had been on for half the day during the install (the rubber cushion on the brake switch gave out while he was testing it as I have a picture of the car from that morning with the tail lights off..i've replaced that). The battery was turning over the engine just fine for a long time; but got low since lights were draining it so it was too low to test a start after he finished. I bought a new one on his advice...$250 wasted. My original battery charged up just fine and is healthy.    It was running perfectly fine when I messed up the old alarm (programmed out the remotes). He couldnt start it after removing the old alarm; my assumption is that when he unhooked it; he didnt bridge the circuit back when trying to start it. Its always been perfectly fine. The ECU swap and pump were 2 years ago. It's never missed a beat in that time. 
    • This is a big issue for me without the diff. I just have zero drive from the passenger side when drivers side has no traction. Bec's parents place has a crazy steep driveway with odd camber and I have never been able to get up. My bro-in-law's 130i with an (unknown brand) LSD gets up fine as does their dad's Hiace. My car stays at the bottom. We have other odd camber roads around here as we're elevated a bit and if it's raining I can get totally stuck around some hairpins. 
    • Yeah, I am super excited for this.
    • Was the car running before he touched the car?
×
×
  • Create New...