Jump to content
SAU Community

Computer Piggy Back Or New Ecu

smidy

By smidy,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

smidy Community Regular

smidy

Posted
Posted

hi guys , just wondering about the safc piggy back for the standard ecu????? :P if thats how it works????? :D still learning it all only had car 6mths, whats the advantages or is it better to get a new ecu and which is more cost effective. car is standard now with 3" mandrel bent exhaust with high flow cat, r33 gts-t 95 series 2.

post-50800-1210063275_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218012-computer-piggy-back-or-new-ecu/
Share on other sites
paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

theres quiet a few in the for sale section

i found at least 3 or 4 tonight

and theres several on ebay

the rarity i think is a bit of a flip flop, ive always been able to find one

usually they are around $1100 these days, i see no need to pay $1500 for one to suit RB25

nuclear_skyline Mentor

nuclear_skyline

Posted
Posted

Greddy Emanage Ultimate. They make a plug and play harness for it, which means you dont have to cut any wires, literally plug in...

It has all the features of the Power FC, but as a piggy back retains the factory goodness of knock control, cold start up, etc... unless you want to change them, which there is a capacity to do...

Also, it has anti-lag and a whole host of other crap... Cheaper and newer technology then what the Power FC is...

My 2c

D_Stirls Veteran

D_Stirls

Posted
Posted (edited)
Greddy Emanage Ultimate. They make a plug and play harness for it, which means you dont have to cut any wires, literally plug in...

It has all the features of the Power FC, but as a piggy back retains the factory goodness of knock control, cold start up, etc... unless you want to change them, which there is a capacity to do...

Also, it has anti-lag and a whole host of other crap... Cheaper and newer technology then what the Power FC is...

My 2c

With the price of second hand Power FC's these day's i don't know why people would use Emanage any more. It's still a signal fudger and has nothing on a full stand alone replacement ECU which these days is only about $3-400 more expensive.

It does retain the cold start (as most after market ECU's do now) and as for Knock Control if the tunes are good then there shouldn't be a need for it. At least with Power FC you can look at the hand controller and see what level of Knock you are getting.

Edited by D_stirls
DazWah Collaborator

DazWah

Posted
Posted

For the mods you only have, i would go a SAFC for the couple of hundred dollars to buy and the hour or so to tune, its your best bet for now. Also get a boost controller of some sort, when you get more mods then your best of getting your ECU remapped, then you can sell the SAFC without loosing much on it.

nuclear_skyline Mentor

nuclear_skyline

Posted
Posted
With the price of second hand Power FC's these day's i don't know why people would use Emanage any more.

You said it second hand PFCs are still $300-400 more expensive then a brand new plug in Emanage Ultimate. I'm not saying the PFCs are bad, they're a fantastic unit and very good for tuning, but they're getting expensive and old now...

It's still a signal fudger and has nothing on a full stand alone replacement ECU which these days is only about $3-400 more expensive.

full stand alone units are great but require a crap load of work to put in... The EMU can be unplugged, which means the car returns to factory ecu settings, and put into your next pride and joy...

Your completely right about the hand controller, a definate advantage of the PFC... That is one area that needs to be updated with the EMU... Apparently with the EM Blue you can you the Profec Eo1 to display info...

Horses for courses... Both are great units, and if you look at what URAS says, and a couple of the other tuners, they'll tell you that both units can achieve the same results.

smidy Community Regular

smidy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thank you everybody for all input, slowly getting a clearer picture on everything! :) the safc where do i get, where does it mount,bolt on, attach???

and cause down the track i will be doing further modifications (relentless modifications if money came by easier :) ) would i be best just getting a new ecu rather than remapping every modification as i proceed :O as then i could gain best performance,fuel economy etc right throughout mods???

thanx for all the replys, stoked to learn shitloads bout my weapon of mass destruction.........to be! and feel confident with experienced replys not mechanics pissing in the wind to you! :)

smidy

smidy Community Regular

smidy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

with the power fc is it as easy as unplugging the standard ecu and plugging in the power fc and program from there, or is there shitloads of wiring and autoelectrical work to be done, then program?

D_Stirls Veteran

D_Stirls

Posted
Posted (edited)

It's plug and play. So yes just unplug your standard ECU and plug the P/FC in. The only wire you would have to run is the lead to the hand controller but that can go anywhere. you can even put it in the glove box if you don't need the see the readings.

Edited by D_stirls
paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted
with the power fc is it as easy as unplugging the standard ecu and plugging in the power fc and program from there, or is there shitloads of wiring and autoelectrical work to be done, then program?

this along with almost any question you can think of are covered in the PFC FAQ

spend about 30 minutes and read the first few topics, it will give you a feel for the unit and clear up the common concerns and questions

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Either the WG is reaching full opening, or it is not. The "it is not" case could only occur if there was not enough time available to swing the valve fully open during that boost event. I would consider that to be unlikely, as this is a commercial product that is in use elsewhere, so it really should work. But in your case, because there is definitely SOMETHING wrong, it should not be assumed that things like that are working as they should. You should put a video camera where it can see the actuator (if at all possible) during a run to see how far it is moving.
    • GTSBoy
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I think you're mostly on the ball there. With the straight gate, I suspect the weight of the spring will determine how quickly the gate can close, when not run with active pressure drive on both sides of the diaphragm. Otherwise, with drive on both sides of the diaphragm, you could almost go without a spring at all, only needing one to make sure that the thing was actually closed while completely off boost and not having pressure available to drive it closed. Butterfly valves have mostly symmetric loading when there is flow going through them, meaning that the gas hitting the upstream part of the blade is balanced by the gas hitting the downstream part of the blade, which means you don't need actuator torque to overcome any non-symmetric flow induced loads. But the gas flow does impart a purely normal load against the shaft, which transfers into the bush/bearing at each end of the shaft and does increase the torque required to make the shaft turn. Only a little, but it is there. I have no feeling for the amount of force involved in a WG application, but it certainly could make an argument for a decent spring weight being required. But all of this is just peripheral to the actual problem here.
    • Borci88
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By Borci88 · Posted

      The answer to this would be I followed the documentation from Turbosmart which said each spring pressure could achieve a maximum of 5x it's rated pressure so the included smallest spring being the 6psi had a range up to 30psi. I went with the 12 because I figured it'd likely hover around 15psi as a base pressure however I was obviously wrong.    I have a log here that I'll dig out that is purely wastegate and no Mac valve controlling anything.   If it can't hold anywhere near 12psi, does that mean the straight gate is virtually wide open during a run? Or am I thinking about this all wrong.   I could Tee Piece into the cooler pipe pre intercooler where the wastegate gets its feed, and send that to the ecu and see how that reads, I just don't have a spare pressure sensor currently that's all.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      lol nice, I wouldn't worry about sanding back the filler to check for rust then. Yep very much a thing. Personally I don't do the panel beating, its very easy to have a panel beater sort that out for you. If they aren't doing any prep work the actual panel beating generally doesn't take long at all.  Have you taken before pictures before you started this project? I'd be keen to see the before and afters when you're done.
    • Lithium
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By Lithium · Posted

      Some good discussion in here, for the most part I can't really add too much to it - thought I'd add some notes to the datalog screen shot that probably aren't news to anyone but a good prop... this is assuming 25psi-ish should be the boost ceiling given the first post refers to 23psi.   To state the obvious, this issue seems super weird.  Turbo speed seems pretty lethagic to build, like the turbo isn't getting as much drive as it needs - and it doesn't help that wgdc keeps rising AFTER boost target then completely shuts duty at a point, which in theory should have the straight gate dump heaps past the turbo and funnily enough causes the huge drop off.  It seems like pretty blunt boost control tuning but I'd not call that the primary issue, so much as possibly not helping the situation. I'm curious, what does a pull look like with purely mechanical boost control?  Like purely wastegate?   There are things in this log and story that make it sound like there could be a significant restriction in the intercooler piping or something - but then it's also overshooting boost target which is NOT what you'd expect with a restriction.   I can see where people are coming from with the non-linear wastegate bypass (not that any valves are linear for this kind of thing), but it still doesn't make sense that it can't hold <20psi on a 12psi spring.    Have you, or can you try measuring pressure pre-intercooler?  Be pretty interesting to see what's happening there vs in the intake manifold - sorry if I've repeated old ground, I've kinda skimmed over but I could have missed something.  In terms of comments regarding the wg spring being closer to boost target, I haven't used a straight gate but part of the reason for having close to wg target is about fighting backpressure as well - I might be wrong, but I'd have thought that part of the point of using a butterfly valve like the straight gate does you actually don't have to resist pressure at all, on EITHER side of the gate.   It shouldn't need too much leverage to start opening, the spring being more to do with where it triggers opening as opposed to resisting boost & EMAP, though smarter people can correct me if I'm wrong there.  
×
×
  • Create New...