Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Roman Auto-Tek at Rhodes are (or were) the Australian distributor for Momo. They will be able to help you out.

Sydney Office & Showroom

14 Cavell Avenue

Rhodes NSW 2138

ph. 02 9743 6822

fax. 02 9743 6962

email: [email protected]

web: http://www.autotek.com.au

Edit:

Yep they still are the aussie distributor:

"Roman Autotek is the sole Australian importer and distributor of Momo, PIAA and Atiwe products."

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218044-little-help/#findComment-3847526
Share on other sites

Roman Auto-Tek at Rhodes are (or were) the Australian distributor for Momo. They will be able to help you out.

Sydney Office & Showroom

14 Cavell Avenue

Rhodes NSW 2138

ph. 02 9743 6822

fax. 02 9743 6962

email: [email protected]

web: http://www.autotek.com.au

Edit:

Yep they still are the aussie distributor:

"Roman Autotek is the sole Australian importer and distributor of Momo, PIAA and Atiwe products."

Hey i spoke to them

but they said they dont have any

So yeah

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218044-little-help/#findComment-3847593
Share on other sites

They're the distributors, so if they cant get them there aint many others who could! :laugh:

It's strange that they couldnt even source some either :(

You might actually find that Momo dont even make rails for the R34, nor any skyline for that matter. I had the same story with my Sparco seats from memory. I had to use Recaro rails and design adapters so the seat would fit the rails.

If you decide to go for Recaro, Australia's importer and distributor of Recaro is Macquarie 4x4 at Windsor.. Talk to Duncan. He was able to import the rails for mine, and Im pretty sure they make rails for R34.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218044-little-help/#findComment-3847741
Share on other sites

there will not be any R34 specific rails for a momo seat. what you will need to do (assuming it's side mount as you said racing seat).

buy some side mounts, they are all pretty much the same. alloy cost more than steel.

buy some sliders aka rails. you can buy momo ones but personally I'd buy some cobra ones. if you really want momo I can sell you my set cheap as I have cobra now.

get adapters made to fit the sliders to the floor. basically they will make a custom base frame that fixes to the 4 standard floor points and will give a level platform to mount the sliders too.

then mount the sliders to the base, the side mounts to the sliders and the seat into the side mounts. then mount the whole thing to the car. :down:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218044-little-help/#findComment-3849048
Share on other sites

what are we looking at to mount recaros into skylines?

roman used to do recaros but not any more i beleive

I used a bride bottom mount rail and redrilled the holes to bolt to my recaro

if its a side mount rail though I dont know if that'd work

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218044-little-help/#findComment-3860076
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
×
×
  • Create New...