Jump to content
SAU Community

Real Quick Q

DjeMz

By DjeMz,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

It will fit but not completely.

The small 10mm bolt hole at the top will not line up and you will have to fill it with silicon or something similar. I recommend 3 bond.

This topic has been covered 1 billion times. Try to use the search function next time.

Cheers, Daniel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218253-real-quick-q/#findComment-3852333
Share on other sites
The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
what about putting a 10mm bolt in there covered with loctite and then grind the head off so its flat, should seal ok and never come loose.

There is absolutely no point in doing that. Coolant does not leak out of the hole. The bolt is there to provide clamping force to the sealing surface. Without it there you can run the risk of it leaking. Usually a fair while down the track but it is still possible.

It fits....use it if you want to. It probably won't ever leak but make sure you fill the hole up with silicon. And don't come crying on here if it does leak as you have been told it may do so.

That is all.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218253-real-quick-q/#findComment-3855361
Share on other sites
ms2606 Newbie

ms2606

Posted
Posted
There is absolutely no point in doing that. Coolant does not leak out of the hole. The bolt is there to provide clamping force to the sealing surface. Without it there you can run the risk of it leaking. Usually a fair while down the track but it is still possible.

It fits....use it if you want to. It probably won't ever leak but make sure you fill the hole up with silicon. And don't come crying on here if it does leak as you have been told it may do so.

That is all.

as a mechanic I suggest against it just buy the proper pump, however if money is that big of problem using either 3bond super sealant (which can only be bought from specialist stores/trade suppliers) or "Ultra Blue" sealer which is readily available from supercheap/auto one or and good spare parts shops apply a thin but full smear of thesealer on booth sides of the gasket and make sure the new pump and surfce of the motor are clean and dry fit the pump with even force over all bolts and allow a few hours set before fitting pulley beltsand fan that should be enough and as suggested earlier fill the left over hole with sealant and allow to set before refilling coolant and running motor

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218253-real-quick-q/#findComment-3855391
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • dbm7
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Duncan
      R34 Plug Identification

      By Duncan · Posted

      Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • joshuaho96
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
    • BOLGE
      R34 Plug Identification

      By BOLGE · Posted

      Hi All, putting the engine back together and everything is perfect except have this plug left over.. any ideas what it is for and where it goes? Is on cold side under the intake plenum *note not a stock plug, as everything has been modified Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...