Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,I have an annoying but apparently not detrimental problem with my r33gtr starter motor,when I start the engine the starter squeals for about 10 secs after it fires up,I can beat it sometimes by being quick on the key release at the exact time it starts but it doesn't always start exactly when I think it will so I have to try again.

I would like to fix this annoying problem while my gearbox is out,but being an import I may have trouble with parts,anyone had or heard of this noise before and how or what to do to fix it.Cheers Grey Pearl.

Edited by grey pearl
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218427-info-needed/
Share on other sites

yeah a few teeth of my flywheel were worn off which caused a horrible sound sometimes when trying to start the car

surely not something which could last for 10 seconds AFTER the car is running...

(note never had starter problems myself but sounds odd)Sorry guys, I thought a bit harder about the noise ,as I haven't driven it for a while and had obviously exaggerated how long the noise lasts for ,probably due to my annoyance that it exists at all.

It is only about 3 secs after startup,I'm sure it's the starter, and sounds like the bendix spring cog is slow to be thrown out,would it be possible to just get a new cog or is it part of the shaft that runs right through the starter,?? also are starter motors the same on imports as aussie made gtrs,as I had terrible trouble trying to source a new compressor for my air-con because of the differences.??

Also thanks for the responses guys it is the best I've experienced since being on the forum.Cheers Grey Pearl.

Ps; Could anyone tell me which state Darkside lives in as I would like to talk to him about some other problems I have with my 31's??.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218427-info-needed/#findComment-3854068
Share on other sites

OI i didn't say all that :banana:

PS. He use to be in Vic wasn't he - maybe PM and ask him?

Yes you did. The quote said so! :)

Rob, just take the startermotor to an auto electrician, they'll sort it out. Gave the same advice to a friend with the same elusive skyline starter motor noise, works fine now.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218427-info-needed/#findComment-3857388
Share on other sites

Yes you did. The quote said so! :blush:

Rob, just take the startermotor to an auto electrician, they'll sort it out. Gave the same advice to a friend with the same elusive skyline starter motor noise, works fine now.

Thanx mate,did your mate tell you what they did to fix it?? and are all r33gtr starters the same, import or not??

And would it be easier to remove while the gearbox is out or just as hard,as I heard they can be a real bitch to get at the top bolt out??Cheers Grey Pearl.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218427-info-needed/#findComment-3857648
Share on other sites

Thanx mate,did your mate tell you what they did to fix it?? and are all r33gtr starters the same, import or not??

And would it be easier to remove while the gearbox is out or just as hard,as I heard they can be a real bitch to get at the top bolt out??Cheers Grey Pearl.

He said they replaced bearings and contact points. Costed him little over $100 i think. Haven't taken one out of a gtr yet, so can help you with that. I dare say its easier without the box in the way, but still do-able with the box on.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218427-info-needed/#findComment-3858040
Share on other sites

He said they replaced bearings and contact points. Costed him little over $100 i think. Haven't taken one out of a gtr yet, so can help you with that. I dare say its easier without the box in the way, but still do-able with the box on.
Thanx hojak,Anyone else had experience with starter removal in gtr33 and could answer all my questions from earlier post Grey Pearl. Edited by grey pearl
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218427-info-needed/#findComment-3858202
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...