Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

any input here would be much appreciated. i've done some searching and can't find any real answers to this. once or twice a year, i get a knocking noise coming from somewhere in my engine bay. i think it's coming from the passenger side somewhere. the sound comes up really badly at the start, it sounds like a hollow knock, like if you were to knock the engine with your knuckles. it goes in time with the revs and sounds absolutely terrible. thing is that if you take it for a bit of a drive . . . taking it easy on the revs and change gear really early, it seems to stay under control . . . to a point. then is gets better and maybe the next day or the day after it's gone all together.

this has happened once or twice a year since i got the car 5 years ago. it's a r33 gts s1. the first time it happend it was after i'd parked on a bit of a hill overnight, but the last few times that hasn't been the case. the last time i'd been mucking around around in the fusebox and hadn't started the car for only about a day. there doesn't seem to be any common factors that cause the noise.

any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219746-knocking-sound/
Share on other sites

that would be the little asian man that nissan put in your engine to make the car so good.. i think yours might be a little worn out and doesnt wanna be there no more.. take it to nissan for a replacement

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219746-knocking-sound/#findComment-3886013
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...