Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thats true however when you live down an area such as I used to there are lots of young peoples flying around. The cops tend to then classify all people that drive a sports/v8 as a bit of a hoon so they do have an attitued when they pull you over even if you havn't done anything wrong.

I don't live down that way anymore however when I visit my parents who do live down that way I occasionally get stares from cops sitting at traffic lights etc. There are a lot of Silvia's flying around down that way.

There is now a LS1 SS commodore that they use to catch all the hoons down there as the V6's just wern't up to it.

But yer your theory is right. I guess that counts out car cruises.

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by browny

On the other hand tho  - a lack of brain cells can also result in illegal mods. I bet cops and auto engineers would have some pretty good stories about downright stupid and dangerous mods people have tried.

My theory is that if you don't put yourself in the position to be harrassed by the cops (ie dont act like a tosser on the roads and dont hang out with people acting like tossers) then your chances of being pulled over are minimal.  

Also if you are civil to the cop and can demostrate that the mod is safe, legal and engineered (ie you have a copy of the certificate in the car) then you are in a lot better position to go free than someone who has a bad attitude.

I havent got to try this theory out yet tho 'cos i've never been pulled over.

that theory not not acting stupid and not being pulled over is just theory since u stated u have never infact been pulled over!!

I on the other hand have been pulled over on multiply occasions. 1'c it was 4.30am and i was on the way to work which was at 5.00am. I drop past a parked cop car at about 40 behind another group of cars doing 40 in a 60 zone. Cops c me, do a quick u turn and then pull me over at the lights, breath test me 0, check license, all points there, yet i still get a canary. Similiar thing happened again this time i turned off a freeway exit at around 9.00pm and was sitting on around 60, a cop car comes flying from atleast 1km behind me, tails me for another km and then stops me 0 breath tests me and canarys and epa's me!!

My theory is that if you don't put yourself in the position to be harrassed by the cops (ie dont act like a tosser on the roads and dont hang out with people acting like tossers) then your chances of being pulled over are minimal.

this theory of your is not realist my friend, and it will change when u get pulled over for bs and booked

Don't take me wrong though a eng. certificate if you show to the cop that has pulled you over will give you a more benifit of the doubt as he will see that you are attempting to do things the right way and make your car safe.

This has to be a plus. Even in the unfortunate circumstance that you do get sent to the pits if you engineer has done his research properly and knows what he can and can't do or has to do in order for the car to be legal and safe the pits wont be a problem and just an inconvenience.

that theory not not acting stupid and not being pulled over is just theory since u stated u have never infact been pulled over!!

Well since I haven't been pulled over, maybe I am doing something right :P...or maybe the cops here are just a bit more relaxed.

When I was in Newcastle I didn't see any cops come to think of it.

I did see a hooker at a bus stop hitch-hiking every day for the 4 days I was there. I'm trying to think the main road bit that was on as the roads feel strange over there. I stayed in a Caravan park that had little houses we hired out. There was also a Tyre joint just near it. It was also close to the sea well relatively close.

  • 11 months later...

Dont bother. I lived in WA, and a cop mate of my brother told me that - with similar mods to what you quoted.

He said that unless I go lighting up the tyres in town, or doing laps around the city or Kings park - I will never get pulled over, and I didnt.

If you do have to get a defect removed, you just pay $30 at the same time and get a permit for those mods. Its that simple. Drop MetBlueGTSt a PM, he has had his done.

  • 1 month later...

I have never owned a "standard" car in my life, every one of them has had mods. If the cops pulled me over I would argue the point, nicely of course. If they insisted, I would get the car inspected, but you don't have to do it right there and then. I always had plenty of time to change over the bits that needed changing. That's why I never sell or throw out the standard parts.

An example, I go for the inspection, the inspectors says "that's a standard airfilter, why did the police officer give you a ticket?" " I have no idea, maybe it was the sticker on it that he didn't like." Hint, I always have little things on the standard parts, a little sticker, a different clamp, a blue hose, anything that I can point to as being the reason.

I always keep the receipt from the inspection station, next time I get pulled over I show the officer the receipt. "I have already had this checked and the inspector passed it, if you make me go and needlessly get it checked again I am going to sue you for harrassment and loss of a days pay while I go. It''s your decision officer". They always back down.

The only thing you have to be careful of is cameras, never ever give them permision to take a picture of your car.

Remember it's all a game, don't take it seriously or personally and never get mad. ;)

SK thats interesting you say about cameras and photos.

A mate of mine was pulled over earlier this year, and the police dude took photos of the 'suspect' items that he wrote on the ticket. He made it very clear he was going to be passing them on around the station so they could be checked.

When we returned to the station after fixing them, he just looked at the car, 5 seconds later... yeah thats all ok buddy, thanks.... hmmm.

I dont like the photo idea

I have never owned a "standard" car in my life, every one of them has had mods.  If the cops pulled me over I would argue the point, nicely of course.  If they insisted, I would get the car inspected, but you don't have to do it right there and then.  I always had plenty of time to change over the bits that needed changing.  That's why I never sell or throw out the standard parts.

An example, I go for the inspection, the inspectors says "that's a standard airfilter, why did the police officer give you a ticket?"  " I have no idea, maybe it was the sticker on it that he didn't like."  Hint, I always have little things on the standard parts, a little sticker, a different clamp, a blue hose, anything that I can point to as being the reason.  

I always keep the receipt from the inspection station, next time I get pulled over I show the officer the receipt.  "I have already had this checked and the inspector passed it, if you make me go and needlessly get it checked again I am going to sue you for harrassment and loss of a days pay while I go.  It''s your decision officer".  They always back down.

The only thing you have to be careful of is cameras, never ever give them permision to take a picture of your car.

Remember it's all a game, don't take it seriously or personally and never get mad. :D

That's all well and good from getting out of fines etc point of view, but the reason I intend to get my project car fully certified is more of a liability point of view.

If your car has uncertified modifications which could deem it unroadworthy without an enigneers report, then what is the point of having insurance.

Last thing you would want is to smash into the back of a ferrari or be involved in a fatality with a car that was illegal to be on the road in the first place. Sure many people say thay will just bring it home and swap the parts back over, but if the car cannot be driven after the accident or a fatility and police are involved, I'd say that wouldnt be as easy and insurance companies will scrutinise your car if they have to pay out big dollars and look for any excuse not to pay up.

I would not recommend getting engineering reports done interstate if coming back to sa. I had my previous car, series 3 bluebird with a CA18DET dropped in it, engineered in nsw because i moved there for 12 months, then tried to come back to sa, and they would not except it. Wanted it engineered again here, because our laws are more stringent or some shit. End result, spat the dummy and bought a 32, because i refused to pay another $1200-$1500 to have it engineered, when it only cost me $300 in Wagga to get done.

I wanna know how interstate can have mods engineered to ADR standards....which dont seem to apply here in SA.

ADR = AUSTRALIAN design regulations

how can one state pass items regarding these standards, yet SA it costs an arm and a leg to do it. PLUS its not guaranteed REGENCY will pass ENGINEERED mods from another state. Yet they use the same ADR's to go by.....

HOW THE HELL DOES THAT WORK????????? :rant:

Remember it's all a game, don't take it seriously or personally and never get mad. :P

And act stupid! Don't know how many times claiming that I didn't know a mod had to be engineered save me from getting a canary!!

I've had my R34 fully engineered here in Coffs Harbour for $500, with a discount being given on future mods if done within 3 months between engineering. i.e $120 to engineer a pod filter, etc.

Can be an expensive exercise getting your car engineered, but not as expensive as not!!

My two cents.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...