Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Ok so when I rip off my turbo coolant lines again, I'm going to do a coolant change aswell.

I can't find any recommendations on the type of coolant to use, only that the R32 maintenance thread says use a 50:50 anti-freeze /anti-boil mix (I don't need anti-freeze, I'm in brisbane). Is this a glycol coolant? or non-glycol coolant? What ratio glycol (g/L)? Autobarn said that depending on engine/head material (cast iron vs alloy/aluminium) will need different types of coolant to stop corrosion, etc...

What brands do people use? I'm just looking at one of those 1L bottles that makes up to 10L.

Castrol?

Tectalloy (sp)?

Fixxxer

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220508-which-coolant/
Share on other sites

Brisbane is colder than sydney in the morning!!!

Anyways to the point pickup some nulon mix up crap and some distilled water mix it up a little higher at 60:40 (60% nulon 40% WATER) \

NULON is recommended by alm,ost all mechanics

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220508-which-coolant/#findComment-3888388
Share on other sites

Brisbane is colder than sydney in the morning!!!

Anyways to the point pickup some nulon mix up crap and some distilled water mix it up a little higher at 60:40 (60% nulon 40% WATER) \

NULON is recommended by alm,ost all mechanics

Be careful mixing coolant stronger than 50:50. It's job is to prevent corrosion, lower the freezing point and raise the boiling point but it isn't as good at transfering heat as pure water. Making the mix too strong can reduce the effieciency of your cooling system.

Edited by _Scotty_
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220508-which-coolant/#findComment-3888419
Share on other sites

I use,

TECTALOY 100 PLUS

Tectaloy 100 Plus is a pre-mixed 50% Anti Freeze/Anti Boil, ready to use second generation organic radiator coolant. Formulated for heavy duty long life use, it is designed to offer the maximum cooling system protection possible. Tectaloy 100 Plus is ideally suited to late model and high performance vehicles.

It is recommended as a replacement for factory fill coolants.

AUSTRALIAN STANDARD:

AS 2108-2004 "TYPE A"

COLOUR & LIFESPAN:

DARK GREEN, 4 YEARS/100,000 KMS

PART NO & PACK SIZE:

RETAIL: 1LT BOTTLE (TE1001L), 5LT BOTTLE (TE1005L)

TRADE: 20LT CONTAINER (TE10020L), 205LT DRUM (TE100205L)

20061027191924.JPG

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220508-which-coolant/#findComment-3888709
Share on other sites

According to Nulon more = better cooling properties.. I believe they suggest 70% for best cooling i.e race conditions Im not sure why (I may be wrong as its from memory - which has prooved several times to be pretty unreliable.)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220508-which-coolant/#findComment-3889554
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...