Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey,

i have an RB25DET in the car and the 5spd blew last night.....drove it home and sound really bad...i think there will be teeth everywehre when i take it out, its a daily and i dont thrash it so can if i make anything else fit for a bit cheaper....eg...rb20 box or 32gtr gears inside my case etc....

cheeers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220552-what-box-will-fit-my-rb25det/
Share on other sites

Any model of nissan that came with a rb motor in it, just make sure you get the correct cross member to go with it.

ie laurel, vl commodore, cefiro, skyline, 88 to 98

i think the question should be what gear box will fit your car model. as any rb box will bolt to any rb motor, etc

your best bet if you've blown your box is go to the wreckers and pick up an auto box for the time being, you will get one really cheap....even if its a 50$ job from a VL commodore for the time being...then save up hard and get new, stronger gears, and box rebuild

straight cut gears these should set you back a 1000 dollars or so but you will never break it again and also the box will then be a selling point of the car.

i would say dog engagment but these are really expensive...

two reasons for the straight cut teeth is

the two cogs have a more contact surface area, and arent herlical, they will be noisey but this will be normal....that is the whole reason car manufacturers make the gears herlical as it reduces the noise from the drive train and makes for a smooth transition between gear changes......

also because the cogs have straight cut teeth the cogs can be narrower but stronger than standard, the upside to this is the sinchro's can be thicker/stronger. snchro ring gears are seperate from the cog itself giving the gearshift the smooth interchange you feel, letting the gear you are selecting catch up to the speed of the engine matching the teeth to engage correctly.

dog engagement is where two pins engage each gear and only spin about 240 degrees then lock that is why you can shift without using the clutch once you are moving because the "dog's" lock onto the gear as you select it once locked the teeth on the cogs are matched, then all you have to do is dump the clutch or let it do its thing while rolling.

ask any race car driver, this is why the gear stick almost gets ripped out of your hand if your not onto it.

this is where the term DOGBOX comes from,

the down side to this is driveability, it's like driving a normal car with a twin plate clutch....you'll get used to it,

knocking it out of gear while the box is under load at the traffic lights for example is a no no because you will crunch it to get it back in first, make sure the car is stopped with the clutch in full then move it

also the advantage to this is having straight cut teeth the shafts wont have as much sideways force and therefore less stress on the bearings and case of the box.

Edited by nizmonut

awesome, are they the same length though? will my tail shaft fit all these gearboxes...is the lifspan of a dogbox going to be shorter. helical gears are lubricated slightly better due to the was they engage the oil can be pushed through instead of pushed out the sides?

also do you think if i bring the diff ratio down there wont be as much strain on the gearebox...hence an rb20 one might last a little while.

First off; What car and what box? Based on your nic would i be right assuming its a 180 with engine conversion?

Confirm you don't have a 20 box in there first before shelling out for internals for a 25 box.

Conversions done by someone else make it hard....

If the car was originally manual i reckon it's almost certainly the original VL box. If it was non turbo then the box would be very similar to an rb20 box and about the same strength.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...