Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

When The AP Engineering PFC was plentiful and could be imported for around 1k a ramp was worth ~800 for the first tune and then approx 500-600 for further tunes.

The PFC on the other hand was ~1k + ~300 for tunes. So I went with the PFC.

Speak to Jeff at Turbo Tune and see what he does remaps for. The only option these days is to drop a rb26 pfc in to the r32 gtst. It does have additional benifits of inlet air temp sensor correction etc which is handy for those hot days or thrashing it at Mallala.

what cubes said.

oif u can get a PFC cheap as chips.. .then do it, buit personally the remap is the way to go, and dont be folled into thinking that the PFC is better then the Stock ecu as this often is not the case, One example is the stock ECU has detonation control, where as the PFC flashes a light at you.

depends on what power your wanting and what your going to be using the car for...

if its dailey driven and just want abit of a tune then the remap is alot cheaper option then a new computer system for a 32 plus its not defectable.

with the extra cash you save on for a remap you can use to buy some mods for the remap.

Simon the std ecu does have det control but it is very limited.

R32's and RB25's have still cracked ring lands due to det on the stock ecu. :)

Personally I prefer the dash light flashing as you then know something is wrong and can get it rectified.

ImportS13... A remap is defectable but is not 'detectable'. Either is the pfc if you shove the stock ecu's cover on it. :(

nothing is idiot proof... if your thrashing on a 40 degree day with shit fuel, the thing is going to ping to death with even the smartest ecu on board. that said, i like the fact the stock ECU will do SOMETHING rather then NOTHING. a flashing light is well and good but when im on the track i dont look at the dash :(

Agree nothing is idiot proof. If the knock map is tuned conservatively no doubt you will feel the power be sucked out of the car so probably a little better than a flashing light. The other concern would be if its too conservative egt's will skyrocket if you keep stuck in to it.

The rb26 pfc ecu has inlet air temp correction, 20x20 fuel/ign maps (finer tune) vs 16x16 on the std ecu.. another couple of plus but for an additional price. :(

If I could get the ecu remapped for $500-600 and then further tunes for a few hundred I'd jump at it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Did and sync timing with light 
    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
×
×
  • Create New...