Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, You might of read that ive been having some problems with my gearbox. Anyway ive tried alot of things. Ive put Redline Shockproof Lightweight oil in there, After about 500kms it hasn't fixed it, Ive tried changing slower, Changing faster.. Giving it a little rev inbetween gears.. And i honestly don't no whats left other then them ripping my box out to see if its my clutch.. Cause lately it doesn't wanna get 1st in the mornings i have to let the clutch in out in out and keep trying to get it in, Its the same with reverse, Before it just had a slight grind going in to 3rd.. Probably once in 8 times.. Now it will do it once in about 5 or 6.. and now its started doing it going in to second from first.. So its definitely getting worse, Has anyone else had this problem or know anything that it could be?

It shouldn't be the clutch because its high up the peddle.. The clutch is a new HD 6 PUK Ceramic clutch. I cant just take it back to the place either cause a mate of mine did it

and i haven't been out to get in to contact with him since -_-

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/221163-rb25-gearbox-still-grinding/
Share on other sites

Hey all, You might of read that ive been having some problems with my gearbox. Anyway ive tried alot of things. Ive put Redline Shockproof Lightweight oil in there, After about 500kms it hasn't fixed it, Ive tried changing slower, Changing faster.. Giving it a little rev inbetween gears.. And i honestly don't no whats left other then them ripping my box out to see if its my clutch.. Cause lately it doesn't wanna get 1st in the mornings i have to let the clutch in out in out and keep trying to get it in, Its the same with reverse, Before it just had a slight grind going in to 3rd.. Probably once in 8 times.. Now it will do it once in about 5 or 6.. and now its started doing it going in to second from first.. So its definitely getting worse, Has anyone else had this problem or know anything that it could be?

It shouldn't be the clutch because its high up the peddle.. The clutch is a new HD 6 PUK Ceramic clutch. I cant just take it back to the place either cause a mate of mine did it

and i haven't been out to get in to contact with him since -_-

have you given thought to the fact ya g/box might be on its way out grinding inbetween gearchanges suggest to me the synchro;s are heading south for the winter redline oil is just a patch up at the best of times if its worn its worn oil wont fix that sounds like rebuild time to me

whats left other then them ripping my box out

:down:

Yeah i've got rough synchros too. I doubt fresh oil will fix it. If you've tried everything you might have to live with it until you can get a 'box rebuild. Fresh synchros, dude it will basically be a brand new box and change very smooth.

Have you considered the clutch fork is screwed? The slave cylinder is also known to be a common weak link the in RB25 box, there's plenty of threads discussing it. That *may* make changing gears harder.

GL with it mate.

Im still kinda a newb with cars =( Im not sure were the master or slave cylinders are, I have checked the clutch fluid and its on the level sign ( the full sign ).. But if it would make any difference.. When i let the clutch out.. i hear this kinda clunk.. like the clutch is engaging but really loudly.. and thats just letting it out, it doesn't even have to be in gear.. a mate of mine said its a something bearing in the gearbox i forgot what he called it lol.

Im not sure if thats what your talking about R33boy.

Ok! The Master and slave cylinders are fine.. When i went to Exhaust Tec today, Mark checked over them for me cause i told him the problem i had while he was fixing my exhaust. And i asked him if he new what the problem could be, and he pretty much said drive it till it brakes and don't worry to much about it till then, cause there a strong box.. Lol. So i don't no where to go from now :blink::P

Edited by Shadex

Buy an $8 bottle of brake fluid and do it your self with from memory a size 10 or 8 small ringy.

First off I usually suck the fluid out of the reservoir then refill and then drip bleed. So crack the master cyls nipple (if it has one) and drip bleed until the fluid is clear; then do the same for the center box thing if your skyline has it and then finally the slave cyl. Once fluid is nice and clear get some one in the car pumping the pedal; hold the pedal to the floor then crack the bleed nipple on the slave cyl until just before fluid stops exiting the nipple; then have th person pump the pedal again and repeat.. Make sure you keep the master cyl full of fluid. :bunny:

Ok, Update.. Im going to get the lines done when i take it to boostworx next week cause they have to do some work on my car anyhow. But.. I have noticed lately.. Its been getting harder to get in to gears.. and if i take off fast in first for example, i clutch to go to second it feels like im yanking it out of gear with no clutch.. its a really rough feel like a jerk as it comes out.

So im wondering if i borght a dodgey clutch :S

my gearbox was feeling a bit wierd it use to crunch from 1st to 2nd at high revs, then that stopped and it started happening between 2nd to 3rd at high revs, now today i was just driving normally changed from 2nd to 3rd and bang, so defently pull your box out and get it rebuilt, its a bitch when it gores driving normally,

JV

The same thing On my box................... Redline shock proof is no fix neither is Royal purple

I changing oil to Castrol VMX80 and see if going back to basics will help

some times normal oils is suited better

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
×
×
  • Create New...