Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Option1Garage will be holding another small drift competition leading up to another larger 5 Round Series to take place later on this year.

We will have a limited number of spots available for drivers on the night so please pre-enter HERE

Costs:

$55 - Driver entry per round

$10 - Adult spectator per event

$5 - Child spectator per event

The Friday night round will be held from 6-10pm with gates open at 5pm to allow drivers ample time to set up and get organised before the event starts.

As requested, we are having the second round early on the Saturday so that the practice and warm up time will be in the daylight. The Saturday round will take place from 3-7pm, a bit earlier as the night time events are getting very cold! Gates will open at 2pm for the drivers.

At these events, there will be a canteen available to purchase food and drinks from.

Prizes will be confirmed closer to the date!

img_0332.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

MORE UPDATE DETAILS:

Date has changed from Saturday 21st to Friday 20th!

Option1Garage will be holding another small drift competition leading up to another larger 5 Round Series to take place later on this year.

We will have a limited number of spots available for drivers on the night so please pre-enter HERE

Costs:

$55 - Driver entry per round

$10 - Adult spectator per event

$5 - Child spectator per event

These two events will be the next two Fridays we are running at the track - The 6th and the 20th of June . Gates will be open at 5pm with cars on track for Practice at 6pm - The competition will be a knockout Battle comp as per recent events we have run at the track :boxing:

At these events, there will be a canteen available to purchase food and drinks from.

We have secured sponsorship of $2000 in Retail product Value from 999 Automotive at Coopers Plains - This will be in the form of vouchers in the following amounts paying down to 10th position!

1st $500

2nd $400

3rd $300

4th $200

5th > 10th $100 ea

Big Thanks to Triple Nine Automotive for their support - now come out and show you appreciate it !!

Go here to check out their website - 999 Automotive

25482277vr2.jpg

UPDATED ONCE AGAIN:

(Sorry for any inconvenience this has caused)

Date has changed from Saturday 21st to Friday 27th!

Option1Garage will be holding another small drift competition leading up to another larger 5 Round Series to take place later on this year.

We will have a limited number of spots available for drivers on the night so please pre-enter HERE

Costs:

$55 - Driver entry per round

$10 - Adult spectator per event

$5 - Child spectator per event

These two events will be the next two Fridays we are running at the track - The 6th and the 27th of June. Gates will be open at 5pm with cars on track for Practice at 6pm - The competition will be a knockout Battle comp as per recent events we have run at the track :boxing:

At these events, there will be a canteen available to purchase food and drinks from.

We have secured sponsorship of $2000 in Retail product Value from 999 Automotive at Coopers Plains - This will be in the form of vouchers in the following amounts paying down to 10th position!

1st $500

2nd $400

3rd $300

4th $200

5th > 10th $100 ea

Big Thanks to Triple Nine Automotive for their support - now come out and show you appreciate it !!

post-7078-1213252556_thumb.jpg

Go here to check out their website - 999 Automotive

25482277vr2.jpg

*UPDATE*

This will be the 2nd round of the 999 Automotive Two Round Series to be run in battle format. Entries are still available with a max of 32 cars on the night and still a great chance for anyone that missed the first round to pick up a $100 retail voucher .

Points:

1st 25pts

2nd 22pts

3rd 20pts

4th 18pts

5th 16pts

6th 14pts

7th 12pts

8th 10pts

9th 8pts

10th 6pts

Results were 1st to 11th -

James Grady

Danny Keneally

Steve Mountfort

Jansen Butler

Travis Dunstan

Daniel Jorgenson

Jesse Viner

Josh Newson

Dale Arrowsmith

Tony Morgan

Mark 180

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...