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EVOIV, I know its expensive, just dont like the idea of being quoted 300 for it to be 5-700.

I spoke to tilbrooks too, they said wouldnt be more than 2-2.5 hours on the dyno. I didnt end up going with them because I also asked about fitting cams and Mick tried to tell me he had to do shims as well - on HKS 256/264 step one cams, I dont think so. And I dont like being called 'champ' by someone that I have never met.

Steve...

Steve just go down to RPM. Shaun no longer works at RPM and Tim now does all the tuning.

Tim tunes safe you can be assured that nothing will go wrong unless it was going to go wrong anyway.

RPM also has some rather cheap PowerFC's for R33's.

I think he said something about it being as much as Greenlines price.

Well its done now.

Happy as a pig in shit. John only tuned it for 1bar because I wanted conservative until the gasket goes on. They put in platinum plugs, but only charged me $90 for them so I'm happy (ngk platinums). He wanted to go a heat range colder and they only stock platinums, to their credit, they were willing to put my original plugs back in and not charge me for them. Spent a total of 4 hours on the dyno. The results speak for themselves.

This turbo is so farken awesome, just cant wait to get some real boost happening. It starts making boost at just over 2k and has 1 bar at under 3k! Off boost is much improved too. Also, as I wanted conservative, the AF ratios are sitting on 11.8:1 - so there will be a bit more to come once

The bottom line is with 10lbs, the top with 1bar. I am so stoked, check out the torque curve!:)

Can only recommend them

hippy should have ALOT more, the turbo isnt anywhere near its efficieny range yet. the peak power you know, the bottom line is the torque, which looks just about perfect, ie flat line. HP (the top line) is a function of torque and rpm - so a flat torque curve tells you that power delivery is very even.

the dog leg up to where the torque curve goes flat is the boost coming on.

Thanks Matt. Its acutally a bit wierd do drive, but it wont take long to get used to. Once it comes on boost it feels live a really revvy V8 if you know what I mean. No meaty midsection in the torque before it starts dropping off. Sorry a bit hard to describe.

I dont think any of you guys have any idea how hard it is to run a mechanical workshop these days. A normal car owner would not be able to comment of this subject with authority & just because I have more than one highly modified car does not give me the authority to comment on would know what these workshops go through to provide a quality service to the average customer looking for the best result at the cheapest price.

However - for those of you that didn't know - I have been involved in modified cars for over 13 years. During that time I have run my own business that involved the manufacture, rental, & servicing of Parts Washers that workshops use to clean the parts. From nothing I built a business that grew to over 900 customers. Everything from small one man workshops right up to Holdens, Mitsubishi, RAAF base etc. There are hundreds of proffessional mechanical workshops in South Australia & over the last 13 years I have served a big percentage of them in some way or another. As the ' Solvent Man' (which is pretty well the bottom of the food chain in the mechanical industry) I have seen, experienced, & got to know many good business operators & mechanics over this time & I have had an insight into this trade that very few would have had.I do have the authority to comment on this subject - & after serving over 900 customers in the mechanical trade in SA, I am pissed off that people with very little actual knowledge on the subject & armed with inuendo are making their opinions known without thinking of the concequences for these workshops.

Adelaide is a small town. We have numerous good workshops that cater for our choice of high performance Japanese cars.Per capita we have more qualified workshops that actually know what they are talking about about than any other state.

Do your homework, make up your own mind.The biggest problem with jap cars is that they do cost money to modify, & you GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR. If it was cheap to have a 9 second GTR everyone would have one!!!

I have dealt with Morpowa, Turbo Tune, & numerous other workshops over the years & I have the highest respect for all of them because I know the crap they have to go through to please everybody.

I use Tilbrook Auto & Dyno - & I highly recommend them to anyone serious about their japanese car. Mark Tilbrook & the others that work under him(Mick, Tharren, & Tyson) are top guys & deserve respect for what they do.

Give all these workshops a break - they are all trying their best,

& we are lucky to have so many competent places to take our cars.

Bitchin session over.

See you all on the street.

OK... but wat actual slandering was there about different mech workshops...? I thought it was more of a discussion on what people prefer and have experienced. Anyway thanks John, that was an intersting thing to read, and obviously u do know alot more then most, especially me!

I like Morpowa, Martin has always been nice to me, ill keep goin to him. Its up to personal opinion anywho!

See u on the street, but no where near Munro, im to slow :)

Bitchin is not nice in anyones book however I think the feed back is invaluable. If a workshop does wrong by someone I know I would want to know about it. There is a difference between constructive criticism and bitchin. If workshop honestly made a mistake and was willing to assit the customer...hey every ones human however the "to bad so sad attitude".....well If someone speaks out and they lose business they get what they deserve.

Remember when you have your next dyno run state that you are after conservative tune without detenation. I know we are all guilty of " I want the most power I can get" comment

Originally posted by hippy

and why do u want a flat line??  why not a line that increases as u go faster? (if thats even possible)

Basically a flat line tells you that you are making power at a linear rate across the board. With a flat line, you get all the torque up and it stays there. You may see with alot of torque curves (torque is the actual twisting effort that the engine produces) that they drop off as the revs increase, which means that although the power is there (torque x rpm) the actuall pull of the car is reducing. Also, if it increases as the revs build, you are not making peak torque (the fun stuff) until the top of the rev range, so this isnt ideal either. Personally I find it alot more predictable and controllable too if it is linear rather than having a smaller 'sweet spot'.

My 0.02 anyways:)

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