Jump to content
SAU Community

$1 boost controller

Vovan

By Vovan,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Vovan Enthusiast

Vovan

Posted
Posted

guys, i noticed you buy adjustable actuators and boost controllers, but here is a $1 solution how to manage your boost up to what your engine can handle:

the point is to give your actuator and stock solenoid false data (false boost pressure) . f.i. you want to have boost 1.0, but stock actuator will open it's valve at 0.6 - 0.7... so in stock - 1.0 will never be reached. actuator - is a mechanical valve.

so, what we do is - unplug the little tube that goes from the main tube from intercooler to your engine. that tube is short and located near the air filter box. there will also be the T look iron tube that goes to solenoid and actuator. so, unplug that little tube and see inside - there you will see a small JET. this jet is configured for 0.6-0.7 bar boost. what you need to do is to find smaller jet and replace the old one. that way less air will go through this tube to actuator and solenoid and actuator will think that the boost is still low and will not open it's valve. but actual boost will be higher. you can check it with your boost meter.

this is the way how ALL boost controllers work - they just cheat the valves. but not with jets, they just through the air into the atmoshpere (decreasing the boost at actuator)

i was going to buy HKS actuator that will handle 0.8-0.9 for about $120 US, but after little thinking decided not to buy it - because to my mind there is just a stronger spring that opens the valve a bit later.. that's it..

btw, i still bought AVCR :P becuase it can set boost by RPMs and i don't plan to drive all day on over boost and don't want to go and change jets all the time :(

but it is still a good solution for people who just start and want to try what increased boost is.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22275-1-boost-controller/
Share on other sites
red900ss Grand Master

red900ss

Posted
Posted

Vovan, I tried a similar thing a while back by substituting the stock T-piece for a brass one of the same size. Just progressively crimp the "|" of the "T" down with pliers, if you go too far just squeeze it back open a bit. Works OK and is interesting to do for an experiment.

red900ss Grand Master

red900ss

Posted
Posted

Actually, upon reflection, it was with a piece of tube (bypassing the flutter valve).

In your scenario the ECU will still command the flutter valve open as system logic dictates. I guess it's just the smaller hole limits the pressure to the wastegate actuator.

Time for another experiment....:P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTR Limp Mode?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      R32 HICAS, so long as the CU is not itself faulty, is easy to keep working enough for the PS. Just unplug the smaller of the two loom plugs, on the CU, like I have already said about 4000 times on this forum. This works with all the stock hardware, or with a lock bar, or with a complete removal. I know, because I have done all of them. OK, actually, I never put a lock bar on because why would you put a lock bar on when you can get rid of the whole lot, including the stupid tie rod ends?
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTR Limp Mode?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Join the NorCal facebook group btw, but if you can confirm it is HICAS I would install a lock bar and do the work to keep the HICAS control unit happy despite the hardware not functioning. The HICAS control unit is also responsible for speed sensitive power steering so if it's unhappy you'll get failsafe/heavy power steering. A standalone can control that power steering solenoid valve but sometimes it's just easier to stick with the factory setup. Tomei makes a little electronic module that you can install to fool the control unit. I would probably go through the effort to not use a scotch-lok and build a harness so I don't have to chop up the OEM harness. Where you could source those connectors and pins I wouldn't know at the moment though.
    • GTSBoy
      Pops when backing off throttle, rough-ish sound through rev range.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Oh, another question comes to mind though. What sort of shitty fuel are you feeding it. Mine, a turbo, has to be fed 98RON, so it doesn't ping itself to death. 98 in Oz is good, dense fuel with minimal oxygenated compounds. Meaning that the energy density is high, and if the O2 trim is working, you will get more MPG than with a lesser fuel. If you're using some sort of piss poor E10 blend with some other MBTE or other oxygenated additions, that could explain using more per mile.
    • Nydt
      R32 GTR Limp Mode?

      By Nydt · Posted

      I have no idea where the thump is coming from, it sounds like its from behind me but im not exactly sure. And it was the HICAS light that came on.   I think a complete delete is the route im going to go. Probably going to pick up the kit within the next month and get it installed. HICAS is just going to end up being a headache if I keep it.    Thanks you. 
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      Just putting this here for reference for other beginners. Similar to what I said above.  I learnt if you have a few dents that are fairly close to each other (within a couple of inches maybe 2-4 inches?) Use filler across them all and sand it all at once with the long block as opposed to fixing them seperately.  Will make life MUCH easier because you won't get stuck in the cycle that I did. I think doing it seperately there is some overlap (mean your whole repair zone might cover near the area of the other dent) and you start sanding near the other dent making a low spot.
×
×
  • Create New...