Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey im looking for some advice

Last night i installed a HKS2530 with 3" dump on my R32.

The turbo works a treat it pulls so much harder than the standard but i find at around 6,000rpm the engine cuts out completely.

it really freaked me out. I am running the same boost as i was with the std turbo (1bar).

So i decided to remove the bleed valve completely. it doesnt stall as often at high rpm, but i do find the boost tends to creep above the 0.7bar... somtimes almost to 1bar.

*note: i am running a completely std computer.

so i have a few questions:

1: would the cut out be a fuel cut or something else?

2: is boost creep normal? it never happened with the std turbo.

3: even if i run standard boost is it possible for the car to run lean? does more dense air need more fuel?

any advice/info would be great! ...Meggala... anyone?

thanks

Ben.

. . .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22305-new-turbo-makes-engine-cut-out/
Share on other sites

Originally posted by bbenny

Hey im looking for some advice  

Last night i installed a HKS2530 with 3" dump on my R32.  

The turbo works a treat it pulls so much harder than the standard but i find at around 6,000rpm the engine cuts out completely.  

it really freaked me out. I am running the same boost as i was with the std turbo (1bar).  

So i decided to remove the bleed valve completely. it doesnt stall as often at high rpm, but i do find the boost tends to creep above the 0.7bar... somtimes almost to 1bar.  

*note: i am running a completely std computer.  

so i have a few questions:  

1: would the cut out be a fuel cut or something else?  

2: is boost creep normal? it never happened with the std turbo.  

3: even if i run standard boost is it possible for the car to run lean? does more dense air need more fuel?  

any advice/info would be great! ...Meggala... anyone?

thanks  

Ben.

. . .

1 yes very probebly your boostcut.

2 check that the wg is working as it should and that no one have screwd on the rod from the aculator.

but sometimes when you wg is too small to regulate the exhaustgases that will accure. easist way to fix in is to place a restricting/small pipe in the exhaust. or exchange the WasteGate

3 yes boost is not really interessting flow say's it all.

so you can tun lean.

Wiktor

mine does the same thing when running 16psi until around 30mins after the car has warmed up on a really cold morning.

15psi and it is fine.

BUT... I'm still running the standard turbo but with a larger fmic.

It does freak you out when it boost cuts though as it starts pulling third gear hard then all of a sudden 'NOTHING'... makes you bring boost up slowly thinking youve blown somthing.

It hardly ever does it in second gear.

If you are running the standard dump pipe it will creep boost with a larger turbo as the gases will have trouble exiting out of the wastegate. Its amasing the gas flows out of the wastegate at all actually when you look at the stock setup. It runs straight in to a flat wall a few cm's after the wastegate.

So how is the lag compared to the standard turbo?

well im running an aftermarket dump, so it should flow pretty easy.

but yeah sounds like the same problem as u joel. just cuts out all of a sudden.

lag isnt too bad actually, it can reach 1 bar at about 3700rpm. its noticable that boost doesnt pull as early as stock, but when it does kick in you really know about it. im very impressed with the turbo, just need to sort out this cut problem. maybe upgrade fuel pump too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...