Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Greetings,

Im currently on the lookout for a tailshaft for an A31 to get through regency, the centre bearing has collapsed in mine & the people who have been doing the work for me have been unable to source a part. It's the only thing I need left to get my car back on the road! :blink:

If anyone has any idea as to where one might be found, pleast let me know. :ninja:

Thank you so very much.. :merli:

Adam.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223430-ceffy-tailshaft/
Share on other sites

Is the center bearing in the rear half of the tailshaft or the front half? (behind or infront of the unijoint)

If it is in the front half,

The front half is similar to the R32 tailshaft

get yourself an R32 manual tailshaft, disassemble the front from the rear.

Disassemble your cefiro tailshaft in the same manner.

Notice that the flange that joins the two halves is larger on the R32 tailshaft, hence incompatible.

Use a rattle gun to remove the nut that is securing the flange to tailshaft, and swap the flange from your cefiro half onto the R32 half.

Now the R32 front half will bolt up to your cefiro rear half, using the cefiro flanges. You will need to have the tailshaft balanced.

This is how I did my tailshaft when I did my manual conversion.

If the bearing is on the rear half of the tailshaft,

get yourself an auto tailshaft (may be easier to find than a manual version) remove the front half from the rear half, do the same to your current tailshaft. Swap rear halves over.

Hope that the replacement tailshaft has a good bearing, you will also need to get this balanced.

Just had a look in nissan FAST, you can get a new bearing kit from them, have no idea about price but you could ring them up and ask.

the part code is 37521K and part number is 37521-85L26- description is BEARING KIT-CENTER

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223430-ceffy-tailshaft/#findComment-3939068
Share on other sites

Ay mate cheers...

I ended up grabbing a R32 tailshaft the other day, and took it down and did notice that it was slightly shorter then the Cefiro, but the bloke there who is a mate of mines brother said he can make it work by doing exactly what you just said. :domokun:

Thanks ..

Adam.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223430-ceffy-tailshaft/#findComment-3943520
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
    • Not yet quite as bad as what we've seen a Jim Berry clutch do in an R32 GTR though when it decided to cut a chassis rail in half... Still very very gnarly and a great reason to avoid.
×
×
  • Create New...