Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey mate your inbox is full... so i cant contact you...

what im after is

hey mate,

do you sell lowered front springs for a GTR R33?

If so what do they drop it by?

And is that all i need to lower the front slightly?

I have on some belstein shocks.

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223507-sydneykid-plz-read/
Share on other sites

hey mate your inbox is full... so i cant contact you...

what im after is

hey mate,

do you sell lowered front springs for a GTR R33?

Yep, the Group Buy price is $144 a pair http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...tel-t87826.html

If so what do they drop it by?

They give a ride height of 355 mm front and 345 mm (centre of wheel to guard)

And is that all i need to lower the front slightly?

Yep

I have on some belstein shocks.

Good choice, if you haven't already done it I strongly suggest that you get extra circlip grooves machined into the Bilsteins. That way you can adjust the height to where you want it. In fact you could retain the standard springs and simply use the circlip grooves to lower it, to around 365 mm is about the most you can go using standard springs though.

Cheers

Gary

Hey Sydneykid I posted in that other thread and you said that you are slowly ansering PM's and to keep trying but I still haven't received a reply from PM's that went through on the 3rd and the 5th of June. I know your busy but I pretty urgently need to know where my order is up too. So if you could just reply in here or in the group buy thread quickly that would be great.

how much lower is that over standered?

What standard?

Standard new out of the factory? (~45 mm)

Standard new after 1,000 k's? (~40 mm)

Standard new after 10 years of unknown use? (measure it)

Cheers

Gary

What standard?

Standard new out of the factory? (~45 mm)

Standard new after 1,000 k's? (~40 mm)

Standard new after 10 years of unknown use? (measure it)

Cheers

Gary

Sydneykid can u please empty your inbox so i can pm you

Sydneykid

i still cant pm you

Yeh SK I usually can not get on the forums at a time when you are clearing your box. I have been trying to contact you for 2 weeks now without success. It appears 3 PM's did go through, one on the 3/06, 5/06 and 10/06 and none have been answered. I can understand if I hadn't yet purchased anything but I have payed and I really would like to know the status of my order at the moment, could you possibly prioritise people who have already provided payment?

Could you please just provide me with the status of my order or a consignment number?

Please guys, help your selves out here. Some days we get more PM's than we can answer in a day and they get carried over to the next day, last weekend I was away (first time in 20+ weeks) so I had 3 days of PM's to catch up. This weekend I am at Oran Park with 2 of the race team cars so I probably won't answer PM's unitl Monday. Sending me a PM at 10.00 am and not getting a response, then sending another PM at 11.00 am and not getting a response, then another at 1.00 pm etc etc. That doesn't help anyone, we answer the PM's as we receive them, filling up the inbox selfishly with your PM's won't get the first one answered any faster.

I think we are up to over 200 guys with Group Buy kits so far, every single one of them has received what they paid for. I am not going anywhwere, you will get your stuff, I leverage the suppliers as best I can but I can't make them go any faster.

Cheers

Gary

Please guys, help your selves out here. Some days we get more PM's than we can answer in a day and they get carried over to the next day, last weekend I was away (first time in 20+ weeks) so I had 3 days of PM's to catch up.

Mate I hope are you making money out of this. I would have given up years ago.

Mate I hope are you making money out of this. I would have given up years ago.

We sell the swaybars that we make, so that's a plus. The only benefit from the rest is improving our negotiations for sponsorship of the race team from the suppliers.

Cheers

Gary

We sell the swaybars that we make, so that's a plus. The only benefit from the rest is improving our negotiations for sponsorship of the race team from the suppliers.

Cheers

Gary

Well I want to get some srpings and shocks for an r33 but I dont know where to transfer the cash to :) . I have sent a PM or 2 but just asking questions and havent gotten a reply (not that I really care I answered all my own questions by reading 8123989 posts in this forum.)

Where do I send the money and how do I let you know what I want ?

PS: I will grab sway bars also when my MBF share money comes through :D

Ben

Well I want to get some srpings and shocks for an r33 but I dont know where to transfer the cash to :) . I have sent a PM or 2 but just asking questions and havent gotten a reply (not that I really care I answered all my own questions by reading 8123989 posts in this forum.)

Where do I send the money and how do I let you know what I want ?

PS: I will grab sway bars also when my MBF share money comes through :D

Ben

Hi Ben I actually reponded to your PM about 20 minutes ago, good timing.

Cheers

Gary

Another tip to help us answer your PM's quickly. For obvious reasons we don't keep every PM, and we get so many that we can't possibly remember them all. So please keep the thread of the PM's so that when you send a new one it has all the previous correspondence. That way we can quickly identify what it is that you need and what has previously been said.

Cheers

Gary

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
×
×
  • Create New...