Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi

i have a series 2 r33 and have a problem.

i have recently put a dvd player into my car. it is just a single din slot head unit and i have a seperate 7" screen hooked up to it taking up 2 din slots. in order to fit it in i had to remove my climate control unit. so now i have to work out another place to mount my climate control unit.

im not sure if i should relocate my screen to another spot or extend the wires and have the climate control unit somewhere else. it has been bugging me when it rains and my windows fog up and i cant see anything.

any ideas would be great

thnx

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223916-relocation-of-climate-control-unit/
Share on other sites

well in my 33 it has the climate control on top and dvd player on the one below but below that is a pocket for an extra din....you shud leave the climate control in its place and set the dvd player on the bottom and the screen in the middle and climate control on top

This is an up coming problem for me... easiest solution is to dump it in the center console or glovebox with some wire extention work.

I've seen an extra din created at the bottom which seemed to work (ignore ugly mfd install at top lol)

post-29690-1213459817_thumb.jpg

Otherwise, you could attempt to condense the control panel so it fits in the ash tray spot, but this wouldn't be for the faint hearted.

A car pc setup with a HVAC controller could do the trick also if you have time up you sleves.

Thanks for your ideas guys.

well in my 33 it has the climate control on top and dvd player on the one below but below that is a pocket for an extra din....you shud leave the climate control in its place and set the dvd player on the bottom and the screen in the middle and climate control on top

My head unit takes up 1 din slot and my screen takes up 2 din spots so there is no additional room for my control unit.

I put mine in my glove box, the loom was long enough and it wasn’t a huge ordeal. It really isn’t that much effort to lean over an press a button on the unit sitting in the glove box, I had it mounted as close to the right as I could, no worse then rooting around for change at the tolls.

No wise ass remarks about the head unit, it came in the car :thumbsup:

Toys.jpg

Nah sorry, don’t have any and I don’t own that car anymore. It was double sided taped to the lid more or less. So when it was open, the unit sat the right way and you were able to see the screen, much like where the fcon is sitting in the photo I found below, however mine was to the right so it was closer.

fconvgauges.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
    • Ok so i will NEED to have this sensor anyway even with Nistune (or standalone ECU) https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-boost-pressure-sensor-evap-control-system-fits-nissan-r34-skyline-c34-nm35-stagea-pnt30-x-trail-rb25det-vq25det-sr20vet?currency=AUD&srsltid=AfmBOoqfxX48bW9bEwH62orcNhtBfp7ekAL0C9Ca89ySFGUiBzXfXeze Is this the correct one? And this is only thing i need? No other "things" connected to the sensor or something? I do have the wiring.
×
×
  • Create New...