Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well, I dont really see the point of the before dyno,

its completely stock, and I mean completely.

And depends on how much a dyno costs. it would be nice to know, but knowing doesnt make the car go any faster.

  • Replies 65
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

depends where you go...

well, then no point for a dyno i think. if you have a completely stock non-turbo, i guess you could run off specs.

say 147kw/96rwkw? Or however much power the gt-v holds.

They are made for the R34, but will fit any other RB25 motor. Not sure if the RB20 is the same design or not.

So if you have a R34, they are a good option.

Not sure if the cobys were designed around a particular model or not.

How much would it cost to install the extractors ? EUG or Shane, got any ideas?

Because i would be pretty interested, but i doubt i'll be hitting it up in a group buy, because whenever there is a group buy im short on the dosh, but when there isnt i got an influx of it in my back pocket lol.

MRXTCZ

It would probably take about 2 hours to fit. so allow at least $200.

You could also try it yourself, no welding required for fitting the extractors for the 34's, all bolts. Just be careful not to snap any of the bolts on the side of your block.

dont think there's a need to take out the engine lol.

going to wait for Trevor's results then make a decision on a possible group buy.

Trev, i'll try and go through with you all the points that Eug raised earlier so i can post em up in here, or if you're keen just throw us some feedback.

Cheers.

Ohh. is it just bolts?

Do i need to crane the engine out to get them in? If not i'll do it myself and get my dad to give me a hand aswell!

thats great news lol!

MRXTCZ

LawL, god no, you dont need to lift the engine out, that would take you all day just to disconnect everything.

take out the airbox and all connecting pipes, then you should be able to see the current exhaust manifold covered in a heat shield, take the heat shield off, undo the cat first. (good idea to use some ramps or at least a jack and supports).

I think there is some stuff you can put on the bolts that will help lossen them. it also helps to tighten the bolts slightly before you try to untigthen them.

once its all off, clean up the block with a wire brush, or better still get a drill attachment wire brush.

replace and rusted nuts. if you have the tools you can replace any rusted studs as well.

you can also use some high temp gasket goo on the gaskets to give a good seal.

Bloody oath!

This thing is friggin massive and deafening man!

I need to get a smaller cat back. 2.5 or 2.25 hmm.

Need to get that before i even thing bout getting extractors on mah ride.

I saw the extractors on ebay aswell.

MRXTCZ

What do you reckon the power advantage would be like? (kw wise)

MRXTCZ

Theres a fair bit more down low toque.. The engine is happyier to be at lower RPM.

I also noticed that the engine reved out quicker and a little harder.

There wasn't much top end again. So there wont be much of a "kw" gain as there isn't much (if any) top end gain where the "peak kw power" is recorded.

It will however give you more responce and a slightly wider power band. You will be able to the diffrence on a dyno sheet. The curve will "bulge" earlier (giving you more torque) where there previously wasn't.

Dont expect too much from it. Do bear in mind that it is only a small section of the exhaust. Your whole exhaust is as good as its worst bit. You may find that the rest of the exhaust system will need to be replaced with a better flowing mandrel bent 2.5 system to see the full gain of the extractors.

P.s. I noticed that the exhaust became a little quiter aswell. Other users have reported otherwise though.

Ahh i see, cheers for the info man.

Well, i really wasnt expecting much anyways, im thinking i'll start from the top and work my way down for the exhaust. Extractors, CAT, then cat back.

Hmm, should be seeing some gains, coz i knw for a fact im loosing power / compression with the massive 3 or 4" i got on the NA right now. Waiting for my group certificate and lovely tax return hehe!

MRXTCZ

Waiting for my group certificate and lovely tax return hehe!

MRXTCZ

Aren't we all!! :) I'll probably get the whole exhaust system done in one go, once that lovely tax return comes through hehe

I'm still keen to see the results of these DKNE extractors though.

Getting more top end power is good, but for daily driving, I'd prefer having more useable power and better response.

keep in mind guys that top end power can be achieved with a larger exhaust, which means more air is required to attain optimal exhaust efficiency. more air = more revs. unless you are revving out to 6-7000rpm daily i doubt you'd make use of the high power reading.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...