Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Oil Dipstick Pops Out Under Boost Test - Also Been Getting Low Oil Pressure Lately- Related?


Recommended Posts

As per title when I did a boost leak test about a month back the engine oil dipstick kept popping out (and when I undid the engine oil cap air would hiss out. From some research it appears the oil dipstick issue is not uncommon and is due to a worn seal (I couldnt find much info about the crankcase pressurising though except for the fact others have reported this too).

I can order a new disptick off Nissan. However Nissan say no R34 dipsticks in the country and I'm up for a 6 week wait...so firstly anyone know if an R33 dipstick is the same as these are in stock?

Secondly when I did my first oil change on the car about 4 months back I overfilled it due to conflicting info in the glovebox manual vs the owners manual on the net vs advice from SAU - so I drove it like that for a week or two without realising then had to drain a fair amount out (just under a litre).

The level is currently sitting right on the H mark now. It has been fine up to this point but in the last week I have noticed my oil pressure is sitting on about 6kg/m2 until its warmed up (say 5 minutes). It then drops to 2kg/m2 at idle after about 10 minutes of driving (this is good I'm told) and rises to around 4kg/m2 or more when accelerating (once again normal). However after about 30 minutes of driving it now drops to about 0.9kg/m2 at idle - I believe this is too low - could the lack of a good seal on the dipstick be the cause of this?? or you think it could be much more serious??

FYI - I tested compression not long ago and it was perfect across all cylinders. I'm using Castrol full synthetic oil 5w-30, its about 4 months old.

Edited by colossus

Was your compression test before the oil over fill debarcle?

Compession should be confined to the combustion chamber...compression in the sump generally means rings.

Was your compression test before the oil over fill debarcle?

Compession should be confined to the combustion chamber...compression in the sump generally means rings.

Its hard to remember but if I had to bet on it I would say the compression test was before the overfill debarcle.

Reading this site though and googling I've found heaps of threads were oil dipstick pops out when doing boost leak tests and the answers to those threads was a warn dipstick o-ring, so thought it was fairly normal...I've only become concerned since the pressure has been dropping at idle.

Have you got a catch can? Does it use the same hose sizes?

Secondly how many Km has your car done? Seems it may need more than 5w30 perhaps a 10w40 (stays thicker at higher temps which is where your 30 is thinning)

and what temps are your engine running at? Is your cooling system working 100%?

Just some thoughts... heres a tip dont take anyones advice on here. I read shit on here and pass it on, I almost always get flamed so obviously this whole forum is full of shit.

Edited by DECIM8

I have had a similar oil pressure dropping at idle issue.

Sometimes my car will drop to 1.5 on the stocko gauge as compared to the usual 2 or just under at warm idle.

10w40 royal purple oil.

However i cant see how my car can magically lose oil pressure then find it again next time i drive/next time the revs drop back to idle. Ie once reved it goes up from 1.5ish on the gauge to where ever, then drop back to the same revs and once again return to 2

Im putting mine down to a faulty gauge/sender.

But obviously your drop is larger

Id say thats most likely a shit stock oil presure gauge all skylines come standard with them, seem to drop out randomly and sensors no longer correctly measure it or somthing.

Get a aftermarket.

Have you got a catch can? Does it use the same hose sizes?

Secondly how many Km has your car done? Seems it may need more than 5w30 perhaps a 10w40 (stays thicker at higher temps which is where your 30 is thinning)

and what temps are your engine running at? Is your cooling system working 100%?

Just some thoughts... heres a tip dont take anyones advice on here. I read shit on here and pass it on, I almost always get flamed so obviously this whole forum is full of shit.

No catch can, cars done right on 100,000kms.

Engine temps normal just under halfway, cooling system working fine.

Oil temp guage sits on 90 after warming up from 70.

What I dont get is what Granthem said above about how can pressure magically return next time you start the car. You see it sits at 2kg/m2 (at idle/light cruise) for the first 25minutes of a drive then without fail it now falls to 1kg/m2 on idle/light cruise and moves slightly up with revs. So it seems 25minutes is some sort of barrier - all I can think of is heat generation but as I said oil temp gauge dosnt move off 90 degrees.

Edited by colossus

PCV sounds like your problem. as above. obviously as youve got no catch can cant be that (might be an idea to install one)

Secondly start using a thicker oil a 10-40 at min your car is now in its tlc or die stage.. 100,000km needs thicker oil lets just say shes been around.

see how you go with that.

sp you may also want to replace the gauge stock is crap, get an aftermarket one.

Edited by DECIM8

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power steering is probably because someone has nuked the HICAS CU and you no longer have the variable power asist doing what it is supposed to. How much boost are you running? You are aware that any more than 10 psi on the stock ECU is just asking for it to go to full R&R (that's Rich & Retard, which is effectively Retarded and Retarded!) which kills all the power. Depending on the exact conditions, it can just be runnign on the fat and stupid end of the maps, then the conditions change, you make a little more boost and the ECU goes into panic.
    • @BuiltNotBought Just as GTSboy said.   If you want driveabilty and more low down torque..keep the stock runners. They are VERY good from a factory. I have them too on my RB25DET NEO and as a GTSboy i have fmic but with stock piping route(i have Blitz intercooler) Iam making around 320 BHP and the car pulls "hard" from like 2,5k all the way to 7k. I have it dyno tuned to mimic N/A power curve and making little less max torque due to the smallbox tranny. But driveability is very great. I had 350Nm below 3k so car feels very quick.
    • Looking to sort out a couple of issues on my skyline  It recently was rebuilt, however rebuilder long story short did not give two flying effs about the work he did. So moving forward it's running but I have two persistent issues 1) it has a misfire / lag type of issue (was at higher RPMs but I had a dead piggy back ecu removed which improved it) now it's not as bad but still does it at random, I thought it may have been a boost issue I'm running an older turbosmart dual stage controller, turbosmart told me to try running off gate pressure however it still has a lag at random times. It has New MAF, maf plug, coil packs, sparks, CP harness.. injectors tested and cleaned. Factory ECU. 2) Power steering issue. It is tight as anything. Flushed power steering, rebuilt my pump because the bearing was shot. Flushed again still tight (mainly when parking and going slow into my driveway etc)  No kinks in hard lines, replaced the lines I could see had cracks. Still tough to steer.  I was told to shim a coin and place into the solenoid plug? Is there anything else. My steering angle sensor also has a issue. It's a used one I replaced, does it need to be calibrated? I feel like I've tried everything and this car is my voodoo doll.   
    • Holy shit... wow!!! I totally missed this
    • One main filter. Each tank has a prefilter to keep rocks and small children out, then the big main filter that also does water separation. Clogged the first one so bad it was like a rev limiter at 3200rpm. Literally just like dropping the throttle off and maintaining rpm!
×
×
  • Create New...