Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1993 R33 Skyline GTS25t

Basic specs

2.5L DOHC intercooled turbo

5 speed manual

4 wheel steering (HICAS)

'Wine Red'

Factory option side skirts and extended front bar

Factory 16" alloys

Rare factory electric sunroof

155,000km

Mods

Full turbo-back 3" exhaust – nice note, not too loud

K&N pod filter (can supply factory airbox if required)

Turbosmart wastegate bleed currently set to 11psi

5-puck brass button clutch (can supply full-face if required)

2750lb pressure plate (standard is 1600lb)

Darkest legal tint (T35)

Autometer boost guage

Turbo timer

Platinum spark plugs

Full immobiliser and alarm system with remote start and remote central locking (installed by Chris Rogers… plug plug :) )

Stereo

Pioneer DEH-P6050 head unit

Alpine splits in the front

Factory upgrade Bose carbon fibre rear speakers

US Audio 504E amp (4x50W)

Fusion 15" dual voice coil sub in custom 85L ported box

Asking price: $23,000

It goes well, it handles and it stops. It has run a best ET of 14.18 sec and a best terminal of 102.4mph. The car is tricky to launch with the button clutch but once off the line, it goes very well and there is no way the clutch will slip. With a decent launch it would be an easy 13 sec car, backed up by a private-road run with a S6 RX7 :)

I've serviced it every 7,500km with top quality oils, replaced filters etc. Will sell with 6 months' rego and Mines ECU (on its way from Japan as I type). It has a current safety certificate.

This has been an absolutely fantastic car, but it has come time to upgrade and I'm in a position to do so. Mmmm, GTR... :D

I'm in Ipswich/Brisbane on weekends and in Toowoomba during the week. If you're a serious buyer, I can be contacted on 0417 761 243, or by email at [email protected]. The nature of my work means that I'm sometimes out of mobile phone range, so if you can't get me just leave a message with your contact details and I'll get back to you.

PICS

R33_Back.jpg

R33_Engine2.jpg

R33_Interior.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22680-fs-r33-skyline-gts25t-se-qld/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
×
×
  • Create New...