Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys... i put a turbosmart dual stage boost controller in the car (r33gtst) (switch in the cabin lets u switch between high and a low boost setting) and installed a boost gauge on the other end of the intake manifold (opposite end of the factory gauge)... so with boost controller dials in their lowest setting... the factory gauge is roughly the same (7psi) and the aftermarket guage tells me im running 10psi.

Which is correct?

And why is my car running 10psi at the dials lowest settings shouldnt it be 7...

how do i work out what my boost pressure is?

The factory gauge isn't in PSI. It's in g/cm2 or something. Essentially 7 on that gauge is about 14psi if I remember correctly.

Oh and what work ahve you done to your car? Chances are if you have a large intercooler and the turbo-back exhaust done you'll be running 10psi and you wont be able to lower it any more than that.

Hey yeah the readings i gave are after you convert it to psi... the factory gauge goes to the line half way between 0 and the top line... and the boost gauge says roughly .7 bar... hence the 7psi/10psi

Mods i did all back to front :D ... no exhaust yet its coming in the next week or two lol... if the guy of ebay didnt scam me!!!... but i put in an r34 sidemount intercooler, 3a racing power stack pod filter, polycarbonate cold air box/pod filter cover, and the boost controller and gauge... so she certainly inhales easier but still factory exhaust...

its kind of a waste having the dual stage, with no ecu piggyback i cant go above 10 anyway so i can only ever use the lowest setting of the boost controller!!! :P if thats 10!! Is there a way to lower it? (without putting the factory solenoid back on lol)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Crazy how good the aero bar looks compared to the stock one
    • Yes, but you will need to rewire all the things that are different. CAS, coils, etc. Yes, but there is no IAT. What? You can use anything you like. It just has to be hooked up so that it will work.     Or are you wanting to just plug and play without having to do any thinking/work?
    • It's been a little over a decade since I bought the S15. As I did on my socials, I'll share some of my favorite pictures from over the years further below. If you haven't realised, pretty much all the pictures in my posts are ones I've taken.  In terms of updates, I don't have pictures, but I acquired a near-perfect pair of fog lights from a friend of mine, so those got swapped in for the pair I already had. As for the JZX110, I just got it back from being fixed. A few weeks back, I was on the highway when I suddenly drove over something with very little time to react. It was probably the size of a soccer ball, but it went under the car and banged into the underside pretty loudly. I pulled over and realized the fluid leaking was fuel, and of course, it was right near my exhaust. This required replacing the fuel tank. If you happen to be in the same predicament, thankfully this car shares a fuel tank with the JZS171, IS200, and IS300, so it wasn't too painful to replace. Enjoy some pictures as mentioned above, including the carnage from the fuel tank and a bonus picture I came across which shows how ridiculously shiny the Bugels are on the 110. So many more pictures I could share of the S15 but this will do for today, enjoy. 
    • Welcome.  Was the mistake the car, or joining us? 😏
    • Yeap, was me and the daughter getting coffee before heading to the new joint to measure up the fridge space and taking some pics that the solar installer wanted of the switch board
×
×
  • Create New...