Jump to content
SAU Community

Ecu Reset On R32 Rb20det

partyboy73

By partyboy73,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

partyboy73 Rising Star

partyboy73

Posted
Posted

I have read many topics on this and was wondering if anyone knows 100% how this is done properly... I'm about to replace a few things (O2 sensor, front/dump pipe, clean AFM, clean Air filter etc) and got the idea that resetting the ECU was the done thing. I have researched and found a few variations such as: "disconnect neg. battery terminal, pump the brake several times then reconnect terminal" or "disconnect pos. terminal hold down brake for 20 mins. wait an hour or so then reconnect, let car idle for 20 mins. then drive for 30-45 mins" or theres "disconnect neg. terminal pump brake for 2-3 mins. then leave for 24 hrs before reconnecting and driving"... Does anyone know for sure which of these is right if any or what the right procedure is? :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/227002-ecu-reset-on-r32-rb20det/
Share on other sites
nizmonut Community Regular

nizmonut

Posted
Posted (edited)

un plug your sensors, pull the battery terminal, plug in all your sensors(for example the afm will default back to how it was if it isnt plugged in before the ecu is reconnected) get a 10ml spanner and move the CAS back to the middle of its adjustment...stand on the brake pedal for a good minute or so, then reconnect battery..

the car will run rough for a little while (15 20 minutes of driving) as the ecu learns all the settings again,

make sure the car is warmed up when you do this as the timing is immediatley retarded for cold startup

Edited by nizmonut
partyboy73 Rising Star

partyboy73

Posted
  • Author
Posted
un plug your sensors, pull the battery terminal, plug in all your sensors(for example the afm will default back to how it was if it isnt plugged in before the ecu is reconnected) get a 10ml spanner and move the CAS back to the middle of its adjustment...stand on the brake pedal for a good minute or so, then reconnect battery..

the car will run rough for a little while (15 20 minutes of driving) as the ecu learns all the settings again,

make sure the car is warmed up when you do this as the timing is immediatley retarded for cold startup

Cheers for the info mate but just a few questions... Does it matter which terminal you disconnect? Also moving the CAS back to centre... do I need to disconnect this and what exactly will this do? Will I need to adjust anything like idle?

Cheers

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted

no need to disconnect any sensors or move the cas, you don't want to be moving the cas unless you have a timing light to check the setting. disconnect the battery, step on the brake pedal a few times (this is just to use you brake lights to use up any residual current). thats it, just reconnect the battery and your all done.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • sonicii
      Could it really happen......

      By sonicii · Posted

      I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Gareth87
      What should I do next to hold the head on

      By Gareth87 · Posted

      Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • MBS206
      Could it really happen......

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • MBS206
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...