Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I brought my '93 R32 GTS-4 towards the start of the year, and took it to Nissan in Brighton for a service and all that not long after I brought it on a trip to Melb. I asked them to quote me for a new or used torque gauge (as it didn't seem to be working, fixed now though) and when they entered in the chassis number and all that jazz, they said it came up with all Autech info. I asked them what is that and they said it's a tuning house arm of Nissan in Japan who take stock cars and fit 'em with all sorts of goodies, and apparently in my case it supposedly has GTR running gear and suspension.

I have done what little research and learning I can since then (April) about Autech and what they do and have done, but I can't find any solid info. I was wondering if anyone knows what Autech changed on the R32 GTS-4's. And if there are any information sources with detailed info on the R32 GTS-4's?

I would greatly appreciate any help/info,

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22761-skyline-r32-gts-4-info/
Share on other sites

In 1992, Autech released an R32 Skyline GTS-4 with and RB26DE (yes, a non-turbo RB26) called a "Skyline Autech Version". This car was marketed as a "Gentlemans" GT-R, it had a non-turbo RB26 for not-so-brutal power delivery (it only had 163kw), and a full loaded interior, with auto everything and re-upholstered GTS-T seats and an AT transmission. It also had the aluminium bonnet from the GT-R, also the GT-R's grille. It only came as a 4-door.

So, a) do you have a 4-door?

B) Do you have an NA RB26? (heh, heh:D)

This is the only model R32 to be released by Autech. I'd say that theres some shenanigans going on if you've got just an ordinary GTS-4...

My GTS-4 is a 2 door with RB20DET engine, HNR32-XXXXXX chassis no, I only assume it's been through Autech because the Nissan dealer said when they punched in all my cars numbers, all Autech stuff came up rather than Nissan. And they said Autech did modifying to standard R32's straight from Nissan and etc etc...

I have no idea if it's legit, but I guess only Autech could "take ownership" or something like that and state themselves as the manufacturer?

It's a mystery, but one I want solved!

I appreciate your help Rezz,

Cheers.

Sorry man, from your info under your User name, it said "R32 GTS-4 Autech", and I though that you had (but didn't know it) a legit Skyline Autech Version...

It's quite possible your car had work done by Autech. people don't realize that Autech is a "car lifestyle" modifying company, and that most of the work they do is fitting "Kid's Version" things to Nissan Serena's etc, things like tougher upholstery on the seats, car navigation, different paint jobs that aren't in the Nissan catalogue etc.

So your car was probably bought and at the point of sale, had a few extras put on by Autech. Nissan makes the car - Autech bolts on some accesories, paints it a non-standard colour, puts in different upholstery, put a higher grade stereo in, things like that. Are there any easily identifyable differences between your car and a standard GTS-4? Like equipment, colour etc?

Well, from the colours I have seen of other GTS-4's, it's the same. The inside looks the same, same colour seats, all that. Umm... As for mechanically, not sure.

What does the "normal" GTS-4 from Nissan have on as in the way of driveline, suspension, computer, etc...?

Got a mid 1993 gts4 turbo coupe.

Just got a new clutch had a nismo single plate in it. Its got nismo stamped shocks (but non adjustable or anything).

Maybe there just stuff someone in Japan had on but the shocks look like a factory deal to me. Plain dark blue in colour with a small nsimo stamped in. Not the logo, just the word.

it might be easier to post a new thread asking other GTS4 owners to quote the number on their cars so that you can get that number looked up from the dealer where they did yours..

maybe it's the same on theirs and the dealer has just got wrong details on their database... wouldn't be the first time..

Originally posted by GTST

maybe it's the same on theirs and the dealer has just got wrong details on their database... wouldn't be the first time..

I'm starting to agree with you. It's nigh on impossible to get a vintage 1993 Autech catalogue (or list of available mods done by Autech that year), let alone get answers from the girl on the helpline.

Sorry cobo-11, I tried, but theres just no way I can say for sure what was done to your car. Lets just say it was "serviced" by Autech:)...

Thanks for your help guys (and girls), especially Rezz. I will try a few things short from phoning Nissan or Autech in Japan.

Hopefully I will find out something in the near Future.

Cheers.

PS: After posting my first thread, I had to phone up my car insurance to change a mistake they made on the paperwork, I spoke to one of the normal people who you deal with, but asked them about Autech and stuff on GTS-4's. In turn the guy put me on hold and went to speak to a 'import expert' who apparently said Autech did modifying to GTS-4's from Nissan and equiped them with a "less aggresive" GTR computer, aswell as some mech changes which the 'import expert' didn't elaborate on.

Whether or not any of it is true is yet another mystery...

Don't ya just love imports! :-)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...