Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok so have had enough of my car lately its been ff the road since february last year and have decided to sell off most of my parts and buy something that is a tad less modified and pref going, few reasons behind this but ne was, have a complete car that can either sell rolling or not otherwise will strip and sell off in parts.

Parts as follows

suspension and braking parts

7 point cusco safety 21 roll cage complete with padding, plates and all bolts to fit, non sunroon modle $850

Rear ARC 30mm adjustable sway bar $250

R33 gtst hand brake cables $100

G4 racing coil overs $800

R32 gtr tail shaft 2 piece $100

JIC rear strut brace $150

S14 front lower control arms $200 pair

S14 front hubs and spindles $350 pair

R32 gtr front rotors and calipers + brake lines and bolts and pads $600 freshly rebuilt can supply receites

R32 gtr rear brake rotors and calipers + bolts and pad $250

R32 gtr rear braided brake lines $50

R32 gtr complete rear diff in housing $400

R32 gtr rear drive shafts and hubs $300

(or will sell complete rear cradle for $1000)

Interior Parts

Schroth 4 point harness $100

r32 gtr passengers seat $100

bride copy fixed back drivers seat on genuine bride rail $250

momo sports steering wheel with silvia boss kit $150

autometre monsta tacho $250

stock s13 silvia dash with cluster and 4 gauges above glove box, oil temp, oil pressure, volts, water temp, $250

Exterior Parts

Turbo back 3" exhaust, 3" dump, front race cat and cat back to suit ca18 $450

onevia conversion

180sx bonnet stock with sparco bonnet pins

180sx front guards

180sx stock sr20 front bar

180sx gp sports front bar

180sx head light covers + vented passengers side

180sx headlight motors

Sell the lot for $600

Engine Parts

Complete ca18det forged engine with all receites

Os Giken twin plate clutch

ca18det 5 speed manual gearbox

Dr Drift remapped computer and stock wiring loom

Greddy oil coller kit with remount mount

600x300x100 FMIC with custom piping and turbo smart vee port

Garrett Gt3071r turbo kit on ss low mount manifold and 38mm external Waste gate

Bosch external coils with loom

Custom plenum creations custom plenum with 75mm throttle body

more info can be found on the motorand build on the below link.

Selling complete motor and gearbox as a package for $6000 firm WILL NOT SEPERATE, if dont sell will keep

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=272094

and once thats all gone will have the shell left over can be regestered still as it just about out of its 3 month period, can supply import approval paper work as well.

As for pictures off all parts they can either be found at the link below otherwise msg me and ill arrange individual pictures of each item.

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=272094

All contact via pm please. And as for prices they are all semi negotiable so pm me with your best offer if you dont like my price and ill see what i can do, will discount if you buy alot of gear at once.

All parts located in Hobart Tasmania and will post at buyers expense.

cheers

Stephen

7 point cusco safety 21 roll cage complete with padding, plates and all bolts to fit, non sunroon modle $850

What car does this suit man

my car as per pictures...

non sunroof s13 silvia or 180sx.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...