Jump to content
SAU Community

Anyone Interested In A Hills Cruise?

rhys5169

By rhys5169,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 81
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

AndrewJZX100 Mentor

AndrewJZX100

Posted
Posted (edited)

Nah seriously if you wanna do a sunrise cruise, 5ish is probably a good start time. And maybe cruise out to the barossa or maybe the back way to Murray Bridge where your facing the sun (bring ya sunnies ;)) so we can cruise along with all the 'lines and see the sunrise :)

For a proper hills run, yeah 3ish :(

Edited by AndrewJZX100
love my 32 Enthusiast

love my 32

Posted
Posted

i'm keen for an early morning cruise through the hills. sunrise is normally around 630-7 so kick it off around 5-530 and it will be wicked. i'm normally up then anyway.

32hills Explorer

32hills

Posted
Posted

has anyone actually driven on an icy road in the hills?

ive lived in the hills all my life and been on my far share of early morning cruises and have never hit any ice on the road.

i did hear that it happened on the freeway once near crafers, but that was after rain aswell. i would be one of the first to say that if it is raining that it isnt the greatest idea to go fanging through the hills and i think that is more of a consideration than ice.

SLED Grand Master

SLED

Posted
Posted

lol, black is is what your tyres feel not what you see.....explanation below:

"Black ice, also known as "glare ice" or "clear ice," typically refers to a thin coating of glazed ice on a surface, often a roadway. While not truly black, it is transparent, allowing the usually-black asphalt/macadam roadway to be seen through it, hence the term. It is unusually slick compared to other forms of roadway ice.

Because it contains relatively little entrapped air in the form of bubbles, black ice is transparent and thus very difficult to see (as compared to snow, frozen slush). In addition, it often is interleaved with wet road, which is identical in appearance. For this reason it is especially hazardous when driving or walking because it is both hard to see and unexpectedly slick.

Bridges and overpasses can be especially dangerous. Black ice forms first on bridges and overpasses because air can circulate both above and below the surface of the elevated roadway, causing the pavement temperature to drop more rapidly. This is often indicated with "Bridge May Be Icy" warning signs.

Black ice may form even when the ambient temperature is several degrees above the NTP freezing point of water (0°C) if the air warms suddenly after a prolonged cold spell that leaves the surface of the roadway well below the freezing point temperature.

The term black ice is sometimes used to describe any type of ice that forms on roadways, even when standing water on roads turns to ice as the temperature falls below freezing."

nos man Mentor

nos man

Posted
Posted (edited)

i've had a run in with (black ice) not too sure if it was! but i use to work at a vineyard in the hills and drove out there at 6 in the morning and i hit this bit of road where you park! i broke and it slowed a little but slid straight into another workers vk commy! not fun

Edited by nos man

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Pressure when IDLING, is meant to be 51PSi... So that amperage value needs to go up a fair chunk... I'd personally be factoring for more like 12amp at least on those runs, and at that point you need to hope the already there wiring doesn't drop you a volt or two, as that's a lot of fuel pressure flow drop off from 13.5 to 12V! Taking idle pressure of 51psi, means the pump will be drawing a MINIMUM of 9amps all the time based on your reading of the graph (3bar base, then allowing an extra 0.5bar for boost = roughly 51psi)
    • Ben_D
      Wanted to buy R200 longnose LSD 3.9 ratio

      By Ben_D · Posted

      Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Ben_D
      Back for more after 18 years - and where are the longnose R200 LSDs?

      By Ben_D · Posted

      Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • sonicii
      G35 Control arm and Compression Rods into a V35 Skyline.

      By sonicii · Posted

      Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Erelyes
      Ceramic turbine damage to engine - what did yours do?

      By Erelyes · Posted

      Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
×
×
  • Create New...