Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Tonight i started my car to leave work at midnight and the car was shuttering and shaking, when i accelerated slowly it had noticable allot less power and it sounds like a WRX engine now comming out of the exhaust.... i pulled over immediately and found that there was a wireing harness that was not connected to anything that was previously connected before i took the car to get new spark plugs and a clean out of the throttle body (i think its the throttle body), so i reconnected this harness. this brown wireing harness sits toward the back of the engine bay on a brass looking cylindrical tube that seems to be sitting behind the plenum and may be connected to what i call the throttle body. There was no difference reconnecting this wire.

What is this wire used for and how is this related to the problem i now face? I have provided a picture of the wire that was found not attatched...

When i decellerate in gear the engine sounds normal and the car is smooth again... when i accelerate the car shakes and shutters and there is not allot of power, the exhaust seems to smell like something burning but the engine temp that is on the dash hasnt risen more than normal that is somewhere inbetween a 1/4 - 1/2 way up the temp guage,,, also my own temp guage that i have put in the engine bay has not risen above normal either...

please help..... this prob is the last thing i need right now :)

post-53255-1216048377_thumb.jpg

post-53255-1216048407_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228161-r33-rb25det-running-very-rough/
Share on other sites

i have just completed some forum searches and i think it may be the coil packs or the afm, seeing that both were played around with on the weekend by the mechanic and there seems to be allot of people in the past who had similar symptons as mine..... thank god i hope thats all it is and not the engine itself..... but i still want to know if anyone else thinks it may be something else, also i still would like to know what that wireing harness above is for.....

cheers

Looks like a connecter near your aac valve. Double check that all connections are on good and proper. Also if your spark plugs were changed, check on the back of the engine where the plastic spark plug cover ends, there is a connector there which goes into the black plastic cover make sure thats connected properly. Only other thing I can think of is maybe your coilpacks have not been put in properly after he did plugs or your intake piping wasnt put on properly, which could possibly cause your rough running. Don't stress I got the same thing after I changed my plugs and i just re-checked all connections made sure everything was tight and it went away.

Cheers,

Evan

ok pulled the engine appart and had a look, seems that the guy i got to change the plugs didnt clip the coils in all the way..... also thats the last time i get someone else to do something simple on my car....

car is back to normal

thanks evan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 3 Kids are starting to hit that ages. I wanted to get them something special to learn on, put down the screens and have some fun. 4Door 2001 R34DE Black Pearl GV1 Jap Import, AU 2nd owner. Pre Work done. Suspension - Wheels Pedders SportsRyder Coilovers   Wheels TSG Spokey Boi 18'x9.5"+15 Body JASI Aero 4 door Type R Full Kit LED Conversion - Parker, Blinkers, & Reverse Exhaust Hurricane Headers 100 CPI high flow cat 2.5" Piping Cannon muffler Internal Bride low max stradia ii - front seats  Bride RO seat base and Rails (R/H) Cube short shifter LED Conversion - Interior   
    • Why are you so adamant on going M12? Why not follow Brad (GTSBoy) suggestion. You're talking moving from a 1/8" size, to a 1/2" effectively. 4 times bigger. Why skip the commonly available sizes in between? The bigger you go, the more likely you are to strip the threads out at a later date, as guaranteed, someone will put a huge spanner on the M12 and really tighten it up, and you're only in thin wall, so not a lot of threads to engage!
    • Hi. Yeah thanks. Car is already at tuners and it staying there to resolve "many" issues they do not like. So it is in a good hands. Getting a good tune on that Nistune ECU too so the car would be good. Just needs a little tune up and love.
    • Probably gonna remove manifold and turbo. I’m not sure if I can get M12 x 1.5 air tight. Could use high temp Loctite 246 or something similar, but I don’t know. Maybe it’s just best to remove everything again and weld an 1/8NPT on there instead.
    • Yeah, saw the ratios, not impressed. Would like the punch I have in the first gears now. With those ratios it won't be the same.  Also want the h pattern gearing, or at least a quiet gear set that don't need to come apart for service each year. Looks like the only "reasonable" way Is a 8hp70 transmission, but where is the fun in that🤷‍♂️
×
×
  • Create New...