Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

What effect do larger diameter sway bars have on ride comfort?

Now I know that we are all told that they are not supposed to have any effect in the perfect road where it is flat and smooth, and where the bumps occur on each side at the same time, but as you may be aware, most city roads are quite honestly all over the place. You'll get huge bumps and dips that occur only on one side at any point in time.

A good quote "if the wheels try to move independently, as with a single-wheel bump, or in opposite directions when the car rolls then the anti-roll bar resists this tendency. Roll is reduced as intended but comfort suffers as the effective spring rate of each wheel is increased in the individual single-wheel bumps, although the combined spring rate of the two wheels is unchanged over joint disturbances"

I also feel that the harder poly links may stiffen up things.

I am currently using Whiteline 24mm front and 20mm rear sway bars + castor and camber bushes. Springs are reset factory ones, stock shocks. Compared to another R34 GTT with the same springs and shocks but without swaybars/castor/camber bushes, mine seems a little bumpier and uncontrolled. Of course the other car has slightly more roll, but it is much much more like factory plush. (i have gained the granny syndrome and want a nicer riding car now hahaha)

So with these sway bars, what is the effective spring rates?

Thanks

It's very hard to calculate the rate of those swaybars because of all the bends and funny angles. Someone would probably have to work it out experimentally, and then measure the motion ratio to work out the effective wheel rate (spring rate at the wheel).

Anyway, swaybars do add to the wheel rate in single wheel bump (nothing in 2 wheel bump though), but because they work by pushing down on the outside wheel and lifting up on the inside wheel, they resist roll on both wheels. This means that a swaybar can provide the same roll stiffness as springs, but with a lower wheel rate, and hence you feel less discomfort. Although it's better than springs, it still does provide more discomfort than stock.

I would also be looking at your reset springs with stock shocks. You've lessened the travel of the shock, but the spring rate and shock valving is the same. This could mean you're riding the bumpstops causing the discomfort. Wrap a cable tie around your shock shaft and go for a drive, then you can see if you're using up all the travel and riding the bump stops.

Cheers for that salad

Pretty certain it is not bottoming out as I have also trimmed quite a fair bit off the bump stops but will give that a shot.

It's not even really the big hits, but also the small undulations and so forth that feel uncontrolled. Maybe with the higher effective spring rates, the stock shocks just cant control and smooth the rapid movements.

You can't directly compare spring rates and swaybar rates, the chassis dynamics are very different. Salad covered the 2 wheel versus 1 wheel scenario, but there are other considerations. The swaybar tries to duplicate what is happening to the wheel in recoil (from the bump) with the wheel that isn't. Plus the bar acts directly through the chassis mountings in the reverse direction. These actions and reactions cancel each other out to some extent. Compared to the single spring impact with has a simple pass on effect on that one wheel only.

The term "reset springs" always worries me, it's a complex process and very hit and miss regardless of the experience and quality of the resetter.

Polyurethane bushes add slightly to the "vibration" item in NVH, particularly link bushes. Since you have most likely only changed the D bushes, the effect is miniscule as the bar rotates freely, hence passing on very little of the impact directly to the chassis.

My guess would be that the standard shocks simply don't have the damping capacity to control the increased anti roll, let alone the reset springs. They didn't have it when they were new, so they sure as hell don't have it now.

A Skyline is a sports car, it suspensions system was designed with that in mind. They aren't a limosine and never will be, no matter what you do to their suspension the basic design criteria will always win out.

Cheers

Gary

Most people don't notice any difference in ride comfort with such small increases in swaybar sizes on a relatively heavy car. It's not until we start using 30 mm bars on light weight cars that come standard with 14 mm bars that we get any ride discussion.

I should mention tyres and to a lesser extent tyre pressure, their effect on ride comfort is often over looked. So it may pay to swap tyres with the car you are comparing.

Cheers

Gary

I am currently running around with std shocks and springs in my car with upgraded swaybars and the ride is pretty sporty. Its not harsh, but you wouldnt think the car has std shocks and springs.

Housemate drove the car and didnt realise i had removed the shocks as he thought it still rode firmly and handled well.

I am currently running around with std shocks and springs in my car with upgraded swaybars and the ride is pretty sporty. Its not harsh, but you wouldnt think the car has std shocks and springs.

Housemate drove the car and didnt realise i had removed the shocks as he thought it still rode firmly and handled well.

Sounds good. care to elaborate Roy? how did is the car different on rough roads?

So there is a noticeable difference, still decent ride but not quite the "no effect" feeling that most people seem to reiterate

  • 4 weeks later...

Okay removed the Whiteline 24mm front and 20mm rear sway bar.

Obviously some more body roll, and less direct steering feedback.

However oddly, there is DRAMATICALLY much more comfort. So when someone says sway bars have next to no affect on comfort, I'd tend to disagree now. On rough roads, there is a significant improvement, and on the smoother ones, its better also.

Strangely even on speed humps when the 2 wheels land together, it seems to be a softer hit than with the bars on.

Learn something new everyday aye.

Okay removed the Whiteline 24mm front and 20mm rear sway bar.

Obviously some more body roll, and less direct steering feedback.

However oddly, there is DRAMATICALLY much more comfort. So when someone says sway bars have next to no affect on comfort, I'd tend to disagree now. On rough roads, there is a significant improvement, and on the smoother ones, its better also.

Strangely even on speed humps when the 2 wheels land together, it seems to be a softer hit than with the bars on.

Learn something new everyday aye.

Hey Danny i'll take those sway bars off you if you don't want?? LOL :D

However oddly, there is DRAMATICALLY much more comfort. So when someone says sway bars have next to no affect on comfort, I'd tend to disagree now. On rough roads, there is a significant improvement, and on the smoother ones, its better also.

As SK stated, this might be evidence that your shocks are not up to the job, or more generally that the sway bars are intended for use with uprated suspension. I didnt notice any difference when i installed mine, but then again the Tein suspension i have is rock hard (spring rate and damping) already...

Strangely even on speed humps when the 2 wheels land together, it seems to be a softer hit than with the bars on.

That doesnt make much sense. Were the bushes properly greased? If the bar binds in the bushes it stops it working properly.

Good point, on stock suspension maybe its more noticeable. As an overall package with some shocks+springs the effect may be less.

Bushes were fine, I wouldnt expect a lack of grease to cause resistance in the movement of the bar against the bush though, itll just be noisier.

PS: it is all by the 'seat of pants' feel which is quite different for everyone. Some people will think there is no difference

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...