Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i was just wondering if anyone has done this before. I needed a new front bar and i like the S2 bar heaps more. So i put the S2 bar on. So my only problem now is that i have about a 2cm step from my head lights back to the top of the bar. Not a big issue but is a bit anoying. Only thing is that i've seen atleast 2 other S1 R33's with the S2 bar on it and they sit perfectly... So i'm just curious if anyone knows whats mods need to be done??

any help would be appreciated

cheers

hey guys i was just wondering if anyone has done this before. I needed a new front bar and i like the S2 bar heaps more. So i put the S2 bar on. So my only problem now is that i have about a 2cm step from my head lights back to the top of the bar. Not a big issue but is a bit anoying. Only thing is that i've seen atleast 2 other S1 R33's with the S2 bar on it and they sit perfectly... So i'm just curious if anyone knows whats mods need to be done??

any help would be appreciated

cheers

Mate the series 2 has different headlights and bonnet to make everything look snug... your going to need to change these as well to make it look right. Although the reo bar is different between the two series' also. i would have though the bar wouldn't clip on properly without swapping that too...unless you don't have a reo bar on your car?!

Cheers

Camden

ha yeah i'm not a complete idiot. yeah needed S2 reo as well. And the headlights and stuff don't really matter as i've seen a couple of S1's with S2 bars that sit perfectly. with standard grill, headlights etc.

Mate the series 2 has different headlights and bonnet to make everything look snug... your going to need to change these as well to make it look right. Although the reo bar is different between the two series' also. i would have though the bar wouldn't clip on properly without swapping that too...unless you don't have a reo bar on your car?!

Cheers

Camden

where the reo meets the car, round out the bolt holes so u can change the pitch of the reo bar. make the front of the reo higher and the slits at the rear wider to allow this. then fiddle til the gap is gone. its the same when u buy an aftermarket bar, this is the easiest and least f**k around way of fitting the bar snug

maybe it would sit at the right height if you chopped the series 1 reo. remove the lower section and bolt it on if it looks like it will work. it will definitely hold the bar at the right height

Its just as illegal to chop the reo as it is to put one on from a different car :)

series 2 can have a smaller reo because they have airbags i figured

hey yeah it's not that it has a gap between the headlights and the bar it's that it has an overhang on the lights... if that makes a little more sense than my previous explination... the bar sits back from the lights a tiny bit, but it sits good in the middle and at the wheel arch just under the lights....

I would just assume it's the lights that is the problem except for the fact that i've seen a few pics of S2 bars on S1 cars with a good fit... (see above picture)

Oh and i have S2 reo as well..

aha... well in that case it would be easier tomove the whole reo forward/back a little bit by elongating or drilling a new hole for the two 14mm bolts on tjhe side. you may end up with a noticeable gap on the sides of the wheelarches, but there is a fair bit of play and stretch in fitting a bar. when you get it in the right spot, screw it in and job done

good luck

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
    • Ahh. Well the block damage is a problem, you really need to run a tap or thread chaser through it to see if the threads can be saved, but any chips are likely to be bottom end bound which is bad. Earls seem to have what you need if you want to stick with mounting direct on the block: https://rceperformance.com.au/parts/earls-straight-adapter-1-8-npt-male-to-1-8-bspt-female.html, but as I said above I'd recommend remote mounting the sender
    • I'm not quite understanding or I'm missing steps here, (I appreciate people are trying to inform my brain but I am of the dumb, especially today) - All I want to do is mount the male BSPT of the OEM sender into the system somewhere without it snapping the adapter via vibration. The Nissan sender has a male 1/8 BSPT output. The block has a (very destroyed) 1/8 NPT input. I'm not really sure how a lathe assists with that, and also don't know anybody with a lathe, nor specifically what I would want to buy. I'm not really sure how adding additional adapters creates a better, more leak proof resilient seal here.
×
×
  • Create New...