Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i was just wondering if anyone has done this before. I needed a new front bar and i like the S2 bar heaps more. So i put the S2 bar on. So my only problem now is that i have about a 2cm step from my head lights back to the top of the bar. Not a big issue but is a bit anoying. Only thing is that i've seen atleast 2 other S1 R33's with the S2 bar on it and they sit perfectly... So i'm just curious if anyone knows whats mods need to be done??

any help would be appreciated

cheers

hey guys i was just wondering if anyone has done this before. I needed a new front bar and i like the S2 bar heaps more. So i put the S2 bar on. So my only problem now is that i have about a 2cm step from my head lights back to the top of the bar. Not a big issue but is a bit anoying. Only thing is that i've seen atleast 2 other S1 R33's with the S2 bar on it and they sit perfectly... So i'm just curious if anyone knows whats mods need to be done??

any help would be appreciated

cheers

Mate the series 2 has different headlights and bonnet to make everything look snug... your going to need to change these as well to make it look right. Although the reo bar is different between the two series' also. i would have though the bar wouldn't clip on properly without swapping that too...unless you don't have a reo bar on your car?!

Cheers

Camden

ha yeah i'm not a complete idiot. yeah needed S2 reo as well. And the headlights and stuff don't really matter as i've seen a couple of S1's with S2 bars that sit perfectly. with standard grill, headlights etc.

Mate the series 2 has different headlights and bonnet to make everything look snug... your going to need to change these as well to make it look right. Although the reo bar is different between the two series' also. i would have though the bar wouldn't clip on properly without swapping that too...unless you don't have a reo bar on your car?!

Cheers

Camden

where the reo meets the car, round out the bolt holes so u can change the pitch of the reo bar. make the front of the reo higher and the slits at the rear wider to allow this. then fiddle til the gap is gone. its the same when u buy an aftermarket bar, this is the easiest and least f**k around way of fitting the bar snug

maybe it would sit at the right height if you chopped the series 1 reo. remove the lower section and bolt it on if it looks like it will work. it will definitely hold the bar at the right height

Its just as illegal to chop the reo as it is to put one on from a different car :)

series 2 can have a smaller reo because they have airbags i figured

hey yeah it's not that it has a gap between the headlights and the bar it's that it has an overhang on the lights... if that makes a little more sense than my previous explination... the bar sits back from the lights a tiny bit, but it sits good in the middle and at the wheel arch just under the lights....

I would just assume it's the lights that is the problem except for the fact that i've seen a few pics of S2 bars on S1 cars with a good fit... (see above picture)

Oh and i have S2 reo as well..

aha... well in that case it would be easier tomove the whole reo forward/back a little bit by elongating or drilling a new hole for the two 14mm bolts on tjhe side. you may end up with a noticeable gap on the sides of the wheelarches, but there is a fair bit of play and stretch in fitting a bar. when you get it in the right spot, screw it in and job done

good luck

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...