Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This topic has probably been discussed numerous times but I'm interested to know what people are dialling in their adjustable cam gears at, and with a brief outline on the running gear supporting their dial-in figures.

Also if you have before & after dyno runs with & without the adjustable cam gears.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/229160-adjustable-cam-gears/
Share on other sites

yeah thanks for that guys.

I probably didn't come across clear enough though......I'm wondering whether you guys played with both gears or just the exhaust (which many of you do), whether you are retarding or advancing the gears and by how much.

I know SK in NSW tends to retard the exhaust gear only, by about 4 degrees (which is 2 marks on the gears) as a starting point and I was wondering if that is the norm for the rest of you.

This isn't with a GTR it's with my CA but we gained 15kw more throughout the rev range and 5kw more in the top end by playing with the cam timing. We were looking for more midrange but we could have gone the other way and looked for more top end but being a 1.8 litre it better off with the extra in the midrange and it made the car sooooo much more drivable with the bigger turbo.

I have the graphs if you want to look at them?

Edited by D_Stirls

Pete, as i said previously, ive fitted cam gears to a mates 26 previously, widened the torque ban quite surprisingly....obviously its wise to fit your N1 water pump and new timing belt at the same time, so if you want a hand or any help dont hesitate Pete. Ill try searchin through the dyno PC tomorrow and find the before and after runs.

Edited by Ryanrb25

CamAdjustmentsCA18detGT2871RTorqueM.jpg

CamAdjustmentsCA18detGT2871RBoostM.jpg

The red line is the base line.

The dark blue line is with inlet cam 5 degrees retarded, which basically gives it the same spec's as a CA18DE exhaust cam

And the light blue line is with the previous inlet adjustment with the addition of the exhaust cam being 2 degrees advanced.

The timing timing above is cam degree's so times by 2 to get crank degrees.

These are the Gears, this is when i was trial fitting them hence some of the bolts aren't fitted.

Image600.jpg

Edited by D_Stirls

Thanks for the info guys, that's great......Ryan, I'll be sending you a PM shortly.

Dale, that's exactly the info I've been looking for.

I'ts clear on the graphs that even though you're not gaining a huge amount of power, you are definitely making it earlier, particularly between 100 to 160 kph (in top gear I assume).

The more I've been looking into it for 26DETT's (can't really comment on others), the more I feel that adj gears will make more of difference on the street than cams and definitely more useable power.

I realize there are other engines out there that work better with cams on the street but even Martin Donan agrees (after a lot of testing on the dyno) that the $1000 for a couple of kw just isn't worth it.

yea in alot of instances (not all of them) cam's aren't worth the money for a streeter...

My mate lashed out 1600 bux for the Jun cam's which apparently are one of the best and to be honest it would have made very simular power with the stock rb20 cam's which are pretty good already. However im sure on a 600kw rb26 they would make a world of difference.

yeah spot on Ryan, even Shaun from Boostworx will tell you that 1 psi more boost can in some cases do what cams can do and its free.

As you say, for a big HP ie. drag car (which I'd love to build), cams are a must.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah that is not actually a lot. Just painting my GTR frontend and the little bits to make sideskirts/nismo flare pieces work correctly/fit on the sedan/mount up correctly came to about $7000. Is it a lot? Sure. None of this is economical. Economy would be shelling the car and buying a 2010 Corolla to commute in. The perspective of all of this is different.
    • I have the 2025 build re003s’ on my 06 XT Forester Turbo and I quite rate them for street wet and dry
    • I don't see any issues here. I've been saying all along this is a big job, the price reflects that.  When the car comes back perfect I'm sure it will feel like money well spent. 
    • Remember, take original quote. Double it. Then add a bit more. It's how any project goes.
    • So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
×
×
  • Create New...