Jump to content
SAU Community

Fuel Pump Issue...

Turbz_13

By Turbz_13,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Turbz_13 Experienced

Turbz_13

Posted
Posted

How ya goin

Last weekend i was drving the gtr around and this happened a couple times, it lost all power but didnt stall until the revs dropped right off, but i would let it sit there for a few minutes and it would then start again.

it seemed like it sorted its self out so i drove it out to a friends bday partie(around 150km's from home, mmm long drive fot it i know). i thien left and got maybe 5km up the road and it didnt it again. pulled over and sat there trying to kick it over. and wouldnt start this time. and there wasnt any pump priminig. finally got a road side assist guy to come and have a look. and he used the test light on the pump plug. the positive lit up. but so do the negative(or earth he actually called it) bit unsualy??

is this a dead pump? time to wake a big mother of pump or set up in?

he told me there may be a reset button that may infact cause to to work. was something bout a impact sensor faulting and no allowing the pump to owrk until it has been reset.

what do you rekon...??

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/229805-fuel-pump-issue/
Share on other sites
trel Mentor

trel

Posted
Posted

If you can't hear the pump priming then chances are it is dead. Try getting a mate or something to bang the tank while youre cranking, if it starts then its fuel pump 100%. Try driving the car with over half a tank of fuel see if it does it. Had the same issue in an old car of mine where I would do a right turn and the car would stall on me. Over half a tank of fuel car was sweet, was fuel pump obviously. And anyway for a 250 dollar investment its well worth it for your GTR, don't want it suffering fuel starvation and then BANG...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/229805-fuel-pump-issue/#findComment-4039135
Share on other sites
Turbz_13 Experienced

Turbz_13

Posted
  • Author
Posted

we basicly tryed everything we could on the side of the road, i had 2 mechanics with me then the 3rd was the road side assist guy. nothing seemed to work. about the only thing was i left it un plugged for a while then plugged it back in and tryed to kick it over and it primed for a few secs then cut out

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/229805-fuel-pump-issue/#findComment-4039339
Share on other sites
DJMGTR Contributor

DJMGTR

Posted
Posted

I had a problem like this a few weeks ago, turned out to be the wiring that supplied the pump with power had shorted out. Replaced with thicker wire, all good now.

Or, my alarm relay shorted out once too, cutting power to fuel pump, it would prime then die. Hope that helps...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/229805-fuel-pump-issue/#findComment-4039362
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...