Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1989 MX83 Toyota Cressida GLX

  • White exterior, plush blue velour interior
  • 3.0L six (7M-GE)
  • A340 electronic auto
  • Climate control aircon - regassed ~2 years ago, farken FREEZING
  • Tinted windows - good quality T35 metallic tint, professionally done ~3 years ago
  • 6 CD Pioneer stacker
  • ~313,000km
  • Comfy as!
  • Selling UNREGISTERED (ran out of rego a couple of weeks ago)
  • Car is located on the north side of Brisbane
  • $1500 ono - make me an offer!

Reason for sale

We have two other cars and a bike so I really don't need the Cressida any more, and it's killing the grass :rofl: I bought the car a few years ago as a comfy commuter and it did the job beautifully, but we've moved onto a newer daily driver and could use the proceeds from selling the Cressida around the house.

Other info

It's like riding a pillow - it really is the most comfortable car I've ever driven. It won't set the world alight but that's really missing the point - that said, they do suit JZ engine swaps extremely well, making it the ideal sleeper!

It isn't perfect though, the paint on the roof is a little cracked and it has a miss at idle. I haven't done any checking so it could be as simple as a fouled plug or a dead plug lead. I also suspect it has a small intake leak, which I haven't looked for. The auto works better when it's warm - when it's cold it sometimes sticks in 1st gear. The tacho doesn't always work (just a loose connection as sometimes a tap on the dash will fix it) and a previous owner broke the clips holding the section of the dash below the steering wheel on, it's currently held on with tape as I've been too lazy to find a new one. The steering wheel needs replacement as the foam has separated from the wheel.

To be honest it probably doesn't need much done to it, but I don't have the time or motivation to do it. As a result, you get a very cheap car that needs a little work. All it should need for roadworthy is a steering wheel, fix the miss, and secure the dash panel below the steering wheel. As far as I know, everything else is legal. It was registered up until the 11th of July and I haven't renewed it as I don't drive it much any more.

Price is $1500 ono as-is, unregistered. You'll need to bring a car trailer, tow truck, or trade plate to get it home legally. If you're quick I may be able to assist with cheap towing.

Contact

I can be contacted by PM or you can just post in here, or you can PM me for my phone number.

Pics to follow

Edit: SOLD!!!

Heh thanks Adam ;)

I need this gone guys! Make an offer!

My brother is a towie so I can possibly help to organise cheap towing for the buyer too

  • 3 weeks later...

I can't believe nobody wants a cheap luxo barge!

Don't be put off by the imperfections, I think you'll find that a lot of second-hand cars have problems, the seller just doesn't tell you about them. I'm being as up-front as I can with this sale, so you shouldn't get any surprises.

Come on fellas, you know you want it, make me an offer, I need it gone!

  • 2 weeks later...

G'day.

Have you thought of putting this ad on jxz100.com? Lots of the Chaser boys like these old girls.

And yes with a 1JZ or 2JZ you have possibly the ultimate sleeper.

Tell you what, I will throw a link in the for sale forum over there for you.

I used to drive a R33, but now I have gone over to the dark side...

cheers

  • 1 month later...


  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I've had too many issues with knock off's on the BMW's. I don't want to do a job twice or more because the parts are shit.
    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
×
×
  • Create New...