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Hi All,

Selling my car, so selling parts, spares, things from my car...... :D

Item: St. May's S13/180SX Stainless Muffler, JASMA Approved (will fit R32 as well)

Age: ?

Condition: No dents, no rust

Price: $50

To Fit: S13/180SX, perhaps R32 Skylines if you bend the hangers

Comments: Was too quiet on my RB, 3.5" inlet, stock looking-ish great flow

Item: S13/180SX Airbox

Age: ?

Condition: Awesome, no cracks, no broken bits

Price: $50

To Fit: S13/180SX

Comments: Spare from conversion

Item: Stock R33 Turbo Cross Over Pipe

Age: ummm 10 years?

Condition: No dents, no fully sick welds, ALL STOCK

Price: $20

To Fit: RB20DET, RB25DET

Comments: Came in a cardboard box with all these stock goodies when I bought my car

Item: Stock R33 Blow Off Valve

Age: ummm 10 years?

Condition: Stock Stock Stock

Price: $50

To Fit: RB20DET, RB25DET, or others perhaps if you got a tig :worship:

Comments: Mitsubishi type, Came in a cardboard box with all these stock goodies when I bought my car

Item: Stock R32 Charcoal Canister Lines

Age: ummm 10 years?

Condition: Stock Stock Stock

Price: $10

To Fit: RB20DET

Comments:

Location: Sydney

Contact: PM

Cheers,

Johnny

St. May's Muffler

post-22311-1217206444_thumb.jpg post-22311-1217206450_thumb.jpg post-22311-1217206456_thumb.jpg post-22311-1217206484_thumb.jpg post-22311-1217206551_thumb.jpg

Air Box

post-22311-1217206585_thumb.jpg post-22311-1217206613_thumb.jpg

Cross Over Pipe & BOV

post-22311-1217206699_thumb.jpg

Charcoal Lines

post-22311-1217206735_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Muffler and Airbox sold..

$50.00 for the remaining lot.....

i.e. cross over pipe, bov, and charcoal lines

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

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  • Latest Posts

    • I have too much trauma from every skyline I've ever seen having crushed jack points/pinch welds lol.    Yep, works 100%, it's what I use when I'm using the quick jack. Don't know why I can't also bring myself to do the same thing when I'm using a jack. I blame the skyline PTSD. 
    • The pinchweld is fine, even with a trolley jack, so long as you're not actually pushing on the pinchweld itself. More to the point, we shouldn't talk about lifting or supporting on the pinchweld, we should talk about using the sill "jacking points", which just happen to be adjacent to the pinchweld. I just have dense rubber blocks with grooves in them for each of the chassis stands and the trolley jack, that I use at the sill jacking points if/when I have to lift/support there. They put all the load onto the steel pad of the jacking point and not the pinchweld. As intended.
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    • I know on some cars it's explicitly endorsed in the service manual but a lot of them it isn't which is what gives me pause. I know a lot of cars also have you jack up the car by the radiator core support which is a lot easier to get to than some crazy deep section of the front subframe. I'm just reluctant to find out if any of that is really safe to do if not listed in the service manual. The FK8 has even the R-chassis beat in this regard, the front subframe jack point is almost fully behind the front tires and is surprisingly recessed into the car.
    • I've been doing it for longer then I can remember and on pretty much every car I've owned without any issues.  Jack on a tow point (or under the rear diff), jack stands under control arms/other beefy suspension component is my go to if I'm not using the quick jack. 
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