Jump to content
SAU Community

Need Help Installing My Sparco Fuel Cap/filler

candy33

By candy33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

candy33 Experienced

candy33

Posted
Posted

Hi guys.

I just bought a sparco aviator style fuel filler for my r32, as i'm doing a widebody conversion.

I know how to mold it and all, but just wondering exactly how i hook up the sparco neck?

It says i need a 2" hose that connects to the sparco neck and the other end to the fuel tank. Only problem is that the stock filler is in my way.

So can i somehow remove the stock rubber boot and filler and run a whole new hose to the tank?

aero_filler_cap.jpg

filler_cap_neck.jpg

thanks

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

yes that is simple enough, the factory filler is held in by a rubber moulding that pulls straight out. and at the tank end it is just a hose clamp holding the pipe on. Not sure if it is 2" diameter though so you might need to change diameters on the way some how.

even better would be mounting the standard neck in the wide guards. I hope that is a breather in the cap because the tank needs to vent.

candy33 Experienced

candy33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
yes that is simple enough, the factory filler is held in by a rubber moulding that pulls straight out. and at the tank end it is just a hose clamp holding the pipe on. Not sure if it is 2" diameter though so you might need to change diameters on the way some how.

even better would be mounting the standard neck in the wide guards. I hope that is a breather in the cap because the tank needs to vent.

Thanks for the info.

I don't quite understand what you mean about mounting the standard neck in the guards could you elaborate?

As for the breather, had a look at it and it doesn't seem to have one? But there is a little bit of play in the cap itself so i'm sure it can vent that way.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Hi mate, I just mean have a look into using the standard filler neck with its rubber boot in the wide guard section. Or depending on how much wider the new guards are, just leave the standard filler in its standard spot and move the filler cover to the new guards - just reach in a bit further.

I think mounting the new one is going to be a PITA unless you know what you are doing. For instance the factory tank has a filler line and a breather line but the aftermarket setups only allow for the filler line

BTW I had another look at the first pic, I'm pretty sure that is a small breather next to the handle on the cap. On the rear does it have a spring loaded section? If so pressure on the rear will open that small vent.

candy33 Experienced

candy33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yes just had another look it does have a breather :(

I thought about using the stock filler neck, but the sparco fuel lid opening is quite small, so i can't fit my hand inside to remove fuel cap...if you get what i mean.

It should be straight foward to get it all fitted, just trying to remove the the stock filler is a problem.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • MBS206
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...