Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item: HID's - 6000K light - Plugs right in, just need to mount the ballast

Age: Used for one day

Condition: As new, will be in box as they came.

Price: $135ish + postage, make me an offer, they are $170 based on how many people ordered in the group buy thread

To Fit: any car that takes H4 lows even low/highs just the high beams aren't that good

Location: Canberra

Contact: PM me or 0430 508 321

Comments: Bought these in error, I needed low/highs but these are only lows. They do appear to have a 'high beam' glow but it isn't very good. I've only had them in the car for the day as I can't remove them tonight. Will post pics of the actual box, packaging etc tomorrow morning when I pull them out.

They are the same brand as the ones in this group buy thread where you are looking at between $155 and $170. The other photos are of how they looked in the car.

post-1667-1217676419_thumb.jpgpost-1667-1217676427_thumb.jpg

Depends, some require a high/low H4, mine did so they did work but you lose a lot of your high beam. The low beam was more than powerful enough but you can't get the distance required or you will blind people driving towards you.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
    • Wouldn’t touch par if they gave it to me. You need to ask how much power you’re looking to make and then add about 50% to it because that’s what you’ll end up making  The factory box says no more at about 350kw or so, the upgraded synchro boxes won’t handle much over 500kw for long and at that point you’re looking at an auto or dog engagement manual,  once you’ve gone dog engagement you may as well go sequential, they cost a little bit more but it’s worth it  also while you’re at it you should upgrade the transfer case with 10 friction plates 
×
×
  • Create New...