Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Im not going to pay outrageous prices for local ones, but ive seen some decent cars sold from the sunday times last sunday. Skipper rippoff mitsubshi sells r33 1993 skylines for $17999, and i passed on a bunky one in canning vale for $14000, so anywhere in that ball park is were i wanna start. No NOS kits sorry!

paul

Why would I buy a private sale for $17000, if i can get a dealer one for $17999 with a warranty? Unless this car had some sort of modifications? What is the car details, man, turbo?

What defines a serious buyer, i just sold my silvia so i guess you could call me a definate buyer cause i need a car to drive to work.

paul

also what are the km on the clock, what colour?

also the $14000 one only had a front nudge on the vehicle which required a new bumper support, thats why it was priced accordingly.

Originally posted by Silvia1992

Why would I buy a private sale for $17000, if i can get a dealer one for $17999 with a warranty? Unless this car had some sort of modifications? What is the car details, man, turbo?

What defines a serious buyer, i just sold my silvia so i guess you could call me a definate buyer cause i need a car to drive to work.

paul

also what are the km on the clock, what colour?  

also the $14000 one only had a front nudge on the vehicle which required a new bumper support, thats why it was priced accordingly.

I would not consider $17,999 for a 93 manual , turbo Line expensive , especially with a warranty. If you want a real cheap one ,import one and take the risk.

Cheers

Ken

Originally posted by Silvia1992

Im not going to pay outrageous prices for local ones, but ive seen some decent cars sold from the sunday times last sunday. Skipper rippoff mitsubshi sells r33 1993 skylines for $17999, and i passed on a bunky one in canning vale for $14000, so anywhere in that ball park is were i wanna start. No NOS kits sorry!

paul

The number of 'decent' skylines on the market is rather low. Once you have driven a good one you will know what I mean.There are many 'good lookers' with mechanical issues. I'd say ignor the low kms tags and just evalutate the mechanicals for themselves. After all this is what low kms is supposed to indicate.

If you can find a 'good' R33 for $17,999 then you are laughing. Most around are not 'good'. Expect upwards of $22k for something decent, that sort of budget is realistic. More for a 95' in good nik or a series 2.

Geez,

$22+ for a 1993 - 1995 car. I just sold my silvia i imported two years ago for a complete loss, cause thats all they are worth.

Consider

1992 silvia NA, auto

Remus 2.5" exhaust, twin tips

Apexi Air filter

New tyres

Apexi extractors

Strut braces etc etc

I bought this car a year ago for $10000, i sold him last week for $6500, it had done 140000km.

But $22000+ for a ten year old car is getting up there, i could be looking at 1998 wrx's and stuff for that kinda money.

paul

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
    • And yes with a full tank it will hit limiter free revving or driving 6B6CDF6E-4094-426D-A9CB-6C553475FE36.mp4
×
×
  • Create New...