Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have shagged knock sensors, they cause a split second of knocking on startup then read zero on idle, recently had the car tuned and they were causing timing issues, and fighting the SAFC and major loss of power....

Has anyone replaced their knock sensors?

Where are they located?

What the hell do they look like......

Edited by 4core

If you are getting timing issues during tuning, then maybe the sensors are doing their job, and you have genuine knock issues.

Have you run an ECU diagnostic to determine if there is a problem with the sensors?

they cause a split second of knocking on startup then read zero on idle
Ever thought it might be the "noise" of the starter motor?

They are located in the block, under #2 and #5 inlet runners.

If it was the starter motor it would be a consistent knock yes? no? Mine will knock anywhere between 9, up to the highest ive seen 135. If it was the starter it would do it all the time right?, once warm the knocking on startup is gone....

the guy tuning my car said he can feel the knock (big lean out at 6500rpm but fuel pressure is perfect) but the SAFC 2 is not picking it up correctly. when i told him about the split second knocking on start up, he said rooted sensors.

You said it does it on startup, but not on idle. The starter only works on startup, and isn't working once the engine is idling.

If the fuel pressure is fine, but you are getting a leanout at 6500, then it's the tune, not a knock sensor.

AFAIK, rooted sensors do nothing (ie have no effect on anything), rather than interfere with workings.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...