A31 Drifters Lets Share Our Suspension Setups!

[toffy]

my setup is pretty basic atm , just some old crapy jic coilo's ( 8kgcm front 6kgcm rear springs ) , rack spacers , rear subframe metal bush thingys , lock bar , rear camber arms, new rear tie rod ends , castor rods and thats about all i can think of off the top of my head.

wheel alignment:

front:

2.5deg negative camber , 7 odd deg castor (could be 8 atm , iv'e changed it a bit) , 2mm toe out 80mm ride height

rear:

1deg camber atm , 0 castor , 2mm toe out , variable between 80mm and 100mm ride height via spring preload

[robots]

Ride height from center of the wheel to the wheel guard(front wheel fender) pls.

[Mrlag]

For any guys running a SR in the hood should the spring rates on the front be different because of the change of weight or are the standard 8/6 a31 setup fine.

I just recently looking at changing my coilovers suspension to new stuff and though id get the right setup the first time.

Any suggestions?

Edited October 3, 2008 by Mrlag

[d1a31]

mine is sr and I have 9kg/7kg it seems to work fine even with quite thick swaybars. 8/6 should be no probs I think just like a silvia

[robots]

mine is sr and I have 9kg/7kg it seems to work fine even with quite thick swaybars. 8/6 should be no probs I think just like a silvia

What do you mean by even with quite thick swaybars. thick swaybars - bad ? Or what ?

Pls explain.

[nigs]

Notice a few guys running S14 LCA. Any reason for this?

Looking for more camber and lock. Tapped out @ -1.5degrees.

Also, having the fronts toe'd out. Do you guys get the outside wheel dragging?

Running 0 toe, front and rear atm.

Not sure which way to go but I'm liking the neutral feel.

[BenA31]

Im also interested to hear more about the reasons for the s14 LCAs....

Mines not really for drift , but just got mine setup for a motorkana this weekend, looking forward to see how it feels.

Front:

height = ~345mm (wheel center to top of arch), caster = ~7 deg, camber = -1.6 deg (none added on the top camber top plates yet, sitting in netural pos, so can get another degree or so from this), toe = 0mm

tien superstreets (damper set ~90%), 27mm adj Selby swaybar, WL camber adj bolts, strutbrace, WL caster adj bushes

Rear:

height = ~340mm, camber = -1 deg, toe =+1mm (2mm total)

tien superstreets (damper set ~90%), 22mm adj Selby swaybar, HICAS lock bar, strutbrace, WL camber / toe adj arms, new WL lwr control arm bushes, sub frame bushes set on "all round"

EDIT: Btw I have a spare set of whiteline camber adj bolts if anyone is after any... accidently ordered 2 sets..

[works 510]

Might aswell wack some info up, seeing as its drivable again.

Front:

old jic's, non damper adjust with 10kg springs, camber tops in neutral posi with s14 Lca's getting me 2.9 deg camber, castor rods (not sure on exact mount of castor), 30mm thick swaybar, s14 rack with lock spacers, last time it had a wheel align, had 2mm+ toe,need another as ive fitted a new rack.

Rear:

Capital D coilover with 8kg springs, stock camber arms but adj toe arms, alloy cradle bushes, aftermarket rear swaybar(cant remember the diam tho)

Unknown rear toe and camber settings as it still needs a decent aligment.

Will post exact alignment setting early next week...

S14 lca's = more length over the s13/a31 lca. More camber

[nigs]

anyone know where in Brisbane I can get Steering Lock spacers?

Do you have to modify anything to fit these?

[robots]

Apparently there is more to S14 arms. Usually when drifting with factory a31/s13 flca you will hit chassis rail when countersteering (fulllock). I think the steering is quicker and there is more lock with factory arms, but due to length issue. Most wheels will hit the chassis rails which sucks. S14 ones gets you a wider front wheel base, more camber and tires don't touch the chassis rails. But I feel, that you get a tad less lock with them or maybe the steering is not as quick with them. Other option is going with R33 lower arms. Their lock stop position is different to S14 lower arms. So you get the same length, but a bit more lock. I will put them on my car over the weekends and find out.

Edited May 26, 2009 by robots

[toffy]

my setup is pretty basic atm , just some old crapy jic coilo's ( 8kgcm front 6kgcm rear springs ) , rack spacers , rear subframe metal bush thingys , lock bar , rear camber arms, new rear tie rod ends , castor rods and thats about all i can think of off the top of my head.

wheel alignment:

front:

2.5deg negative camber , 7 odd deg castor (could be 8 atm , iv'e changed it a bit) , 2mm toe out 80mm ride height

rear:

1deg camber atm , 0 castor , 2mm toe out , variable between 80mm and 100mm ride height via spring preload

thats changed a lil since back then , isc coilovers 8kg/cm front 6kg/cm rear springs, dampening set 1 click back from hard at the front 12 clicks back from hard at the rear (would work well on a low grip track) , i got the ride height wrong its 100mmfront 106mm rear (or 100 , depends on my mood) 2deg -ve camber on the rear 2.5 still at the front which i'm going to change to 4deg for the next drift day. and i have a set of r33 lca to fit

Ride height from center of the wheel to the wheel guard(front wheel fender) pls.

bad idea to get measurements from there, theyr'e never even especially if theyv'e been rolled/flared or fiberglass

[robots]

bad idea to get measurements from there, theyr'e never even especially if theyv'e been rolled/flared or fiberglass

Where to get them then ?

[toffy]

well generally you have to try from the chassis/front or rear subframe but it's kinda hard if your car is super low, to cheat you can measure from the top of the seal under the doors , thats about the most accurate you'll find without going under the car