Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

My R33 wont start, Crank, Windows wont go down, Head unit wont turn on and Tein EDFC comes up with ERR/ERR trying to set the dampning which is on the same circuit as the headunit.

Was fixing a few faults with my car alarm last night as i couldnt program the alarm as it had been hooked up for a positive door switch system. I reversed it and connected it too the (-) input. Anyway all tested ok everything was fine.

I then noticed that the starter wire for the alarm was not connected to B+ so i hooked it up too the back of the main power wire for ignition as per Viper 5701 Manual. WHen i was soldering this wire i accidentally shorted it from the power wire to the chasis of the car for a split second.

I taped up the connections, didnt think much of anything till I tried to program the alarm, went to lock the doors but had the door motors go crazy, I tried starting it but it wouldnt crank (and i couldnt hear the relay switch either) I thought it was a flat battery however have charged it overnight and is now showing full, i did keep cranking it previously to work out what the fault was with the remote start prior to finding that disconnected wire and did notice that it seemed slightly flat.

When i go to start it i get the engine light and the one under flashing, My PowerFC lights up and handcontroller starts up giving Battery Voltage at 12.6v.

There seems to be voltage just no current to drive anything? (the door locks will still lock if using the passenger lock switch inside the door, however when trying to arm the alarm they wont, just makes some weird noises and once again chirps but seems like theres no current there once again. After i have tried to crank it 2 lights come up and flash together one is the engine light and theres another one below it i cant remember.

Does anyone have any ideas?

Edited by SLYDA
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/232066-r33-wont-crank-electrical-issues/
Share on other sites

Hi,

If you have had a short cicuit the first thing I would check would be for main power supply to the back of the ignition switch, all fuses need to be tested with ignition and immobiliser disarmed, all fusible links need to be checked particularly mains, ignition mains, battery and since it is a Viper alarm check to see if the immobilser relay is energizing (clicking) with ignition on and not falling away during crank or if unsure just bypass it for the time being, I mean its not like this single immobiliser is going to save your car on its own anyway, lol, if you still get no crank just reply in this thread or email me on my business email, telephone is another option.

Cheers and Good Luck,

Leon

thanks for replying :whistling:... it was actually the Ignition fusable link in the fuse holder in the boot. I got home today and had no voltage anywhere (no dash lights, no accessories, no B+ on the ignition. Im guessing the fuasble didnt fully blow? and was allowing a very very small amount of current through till it completley failed which completley got me as i was seeing voltage still on ignition and other points i tested last night.

I have a Viper 5701 the car alarm installer has made a few mistakes i have corrected ie, connecting the (+) door trigger wire to a (-) trigger system, connecting the back up battery module to the (-) input instead. connecting the bonnet to the boot sensor and the boot to the bonnet.

Anyway ive double checked all the connections. Tested everything was connected correctally and when i activate the remote stat and hit the arm key the car keeps running? Its meant too shut down. It has a turbo timer function which is not enabled) and the car has a specific manual shut down process. (foot on break pull park brake up, take foot off brake hit remote start button get out and arm the system.

Any ideas? :D coz its got me..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...