Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

MAKE; Nissan

MODEL; Skyline

KM'S; 99700

Transmission; 5speed manual

Colour; grey

Location; Gymea, southern Sydney

Complied? Yes

RWC supplied? If you want

Currently registered? Yes, till December

Price; $12500 with Volk GT-C's or $10500 with other wheels (Impul 16inch)

Contact; Here or 0415095010

Alright - here is my Skyline that i have for sale. Ive owned it for about one year and had heaps of plans for it, but due to family and work commitments i dont have time for it currently. So its up for sale...

Excellent condition inside and out.

Just had 100K service which included:

Replaced timing belt - including tensioners and seals.

New genuine water pump.

New radiator hoses.

New spark plugs.

New Spitfire coil packs fitted.

All oils/coolant changed. (including gearbox, diff and power steering)

Replaced all Filters. (standard airbox with BEE R panel filter)

All 3 fan belts replaced.

New thermostat.

Modifications already on car when i purchased it:

Adjustable coilover suspension.

Strut brace and Master cylinder support.

Braided flexible brake lines.

Pivot short shift.

Full exhaust. (turbo back)

New clutch.

Modifications within the last year:

Greddy front mount intercooler.

GFB bleed valve.

Full Alpine stereo. (including Ipod connector, sub and amp)

18 Inch Genuine Volk GT-C wheels with quality new tyres.

Thats all that i can think of at the moment...

So im chasing $12500 for it as is or,

$10500 without the GT-C's but with a set of 16 inch Impul wheels. (jap spec mags)

Pictures are current, please ignore dates

4193861.jpg

4193855.jpg

4193869.jpg

4193878.jpg

Edited by scully
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/232421-for-sale-r33-gtst-four-door-skyline/
Share on other sites

can have pics of other wheels mate... wonder why no interest look like a efing mint sled!!gotta mate is after turbo 4 door... also can i have pics of engine bay and possibly under car?

Edited by slidwaz

Thanks Slidwaz, Yeah i reckon the four doors are chariots... Taking pics of wheels tonite - be on soon. Car gets detailed on Wednesday so more pics of car then.

Yeah thanks pj,

I didnt think i'd get much interest but there actually is a bit out there for the old taxi!!! Starting to think i shouldnt sell it - jeez im stupid, still for sale. (i think)((until i change my mind again))

SOLD!!! Car is - not the wheels. Wheels now up for sale.

Anybody wants a set of 18 inch GT-C's with as new tyres????

Will be putting up for sale in parts section soon.... After about 2K for em - Tyres worth 1K alone.

SOLD!!! Car is - not the wheels. Wheels now up for sale.

Anybody wants a set of 18 inch GT-C's with as new tyres????

Will be putting up for sale in parts section soon.... After about 2K for em - Tyres worth 1K alone.

spewing. was keen enough for a road trip to buy this. left it too late. oh well, will keep looking for another manual one *wish me luck*

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...