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Dynoed my Car, stock ECU intercooler 183rwks

EnricoPalazzo

By EnricoPalazzo,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
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Here is another thougth, James (D1 Garage) is headding over to japan in about 3 weeks, perhaps he could find you a decent second hand jap clutch and pressure plate? He has a couple for RB20 and SR20 at the moment which are pretty cheap, will probably hold a bit better than some of the local stuff (1 in particular) that I have tried.

Also, if you think its necessary I could take your car for a blast:p but if you think the clutch is slipping, it probably is:D

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Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

The spike is actually 14psi according to the dyno run.

Notice also how around the spike it looses power.

According to the dyno run it likes 12psi, makes most power around there. Hold it all the way through and it should make more power every where not just up top.

Guest Robo's

Guest Robo's

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by hippy

why does the boost go down after a while and doesn't stay at 12 psi or whatever u set it at?

Mine does exactly the same, peaks at 12psi and drops to 10psi by 7000rpm.

If its the stock intercooler, does people with FMIC have the same problem?

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by gtstii

if the bleeder had a restrictor which is too small, wouldn't this mean that the actuator can sees less pressure - meaning more boost!

The restrictor isn't there to control boost it is there to give the bleeder its range of adjustment. Its up side is that it also helps ramp boost up harder as the wastegate actuator see's the pressure later but its down side is if it is to small it will cause spikes.

My bleeder was set to 15psi and would spike to 17psi then dribble off to approx 12.5-13psi.

The bleeder was better for the street as it would hit harder and feel snappier where as the EBC doesn't hit as hard. BUT it isn't spiking to 17psi so i guess that is where the hard hit with the bleeder was coming from. Fitting the EBC I picked up around 10-15rwkw as it now holds boost up top a little better even though the rb20det small arsed turbo doesn't like it.

gtstii Collaborator

gtstii

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by Robo's

Did you put it in?

Does it bolt straight up, it doesnt look like it does?

Any difference in performance?

I installed it in about half an hour

Perfect fit to stock piping - straight bolt in

I felt a difference - a lot less restrictive up top.

definitely a worthwhile mod in my eyes if you dont want a mega front mount which attracts attention and adds lag.

in terms of volume, it is around 50% bigger than the stock r33 unit, so it must make a diff.

Guest Robo's

Guest Robo's

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by gtstii

I installed it in about half an hour

Perfect fit to stock piping - straight bolt in

I felt a difference - a lot less restrictive up top.

definitely a worthwhile mod in my eyes if you dont want a mega front mount which attracts attention and adds lag.

in terms of volume, it is around 50% bigger than the stock r33 unit, so it must make a diff.

If it fits easy an easy fit, i will do it, i can source one up for $100.

Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by Robo's

Mine does exactly the same, peaks at 12psi and drops to 10psi by 7000rpm.  

If its the stock intercooler, does people with FMIC have the same problem?

Mine did with stock cooler, got a FMIC and it held boost all the way to redline.

Horsepowerinabox have a write up on the stock cooler saying it drops something in the range of 7psi at 6000+rpm, its on the cooler upgrade for R33 pages, worth a look.

If what they say is true, when you are reading 10psi at 7000rpm, your turbo is actually making 17psi as boost is measured at the plenum. This is probably why its not a good idea to boost over 10psi (or try to) with a stock cooler;)

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