Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Make: Nissan

Model: gtir 1992

Milage: 66500kms

Transmission: 5speed

Colour: red

Location: Sydney

Complied? yep

RWC supplied? no

Currently registered? 10mths rego

Price: 11k ono or swap

Contact: 0425284264

Comments / Modifications: I have just fitted 17" matt black bsa racing wheels with new tyres. Car was imported to Australia in Nov/2004

SR20det intercooler t28 turbo, twin cam, 16value, All wheel drive. all power options, Car is immaculate as new for a 92model car with low kms, Paint is in pretty much immaculate condition as is the interior, very reliable, This awd car is a very quick thats good on fuel. car is running on 11 psi its never been boosted over that,

this is a gtir Sr20 engine it is the most strongest out of the sr20 family. It comes stock with a 172kws from factory with a few of my mods it should be around the 180-190kws mark at the fly wheel.

Specs:

- manual tap boost controller

:-18/06/09 rego

- 66200kms

- colour coded moulds and bumpers

- Drift boost gauge and volt meter gauge

- Lion alarm with black wiring with 2 point immobilizer and 2 alarm buttons.

- Rear LSD diff

- Espelir 2.5" lowered springs with KYB NEW SR SPECIAL aftermarket shocks.

- 3" stainless cat back exhaust

- After market fuel computer with 3 fuel maps

- adjustable thermo temp switch

- Apexi alloy over flow tank with apexi radiator cap

- HKS bov

- hks turbo timer

- close ratio gear box with short shifter

- Platinum plugs with 8.8mm spit fire leads

- New genuine nissan water hoes kit with new thermostat

- New kenwood mp3/cd, alpine 6.5" spits

- Hd button clutch for daily driving

- Car has just been fully service with Turbolight MOTUL oils, fresh coolant, fresh platinum plugs, new fuel and oil filter

- Top end engine rebuilt the head has been fully service with new value guides, adjust tappets, and full polish head, vrs kit and arp head studs this still is a under 3mths warranty cost $2400 for this service.

-This car is very rare in factory red most of them are black/white, and car is in top A1 condition, clutch is less than 5k old and has a good bite, air con ice cold, never in any accidents and come with a clean title I have receipts for everything if you add up all my receipts its over 3grand...

Call Andy on 0425284264 for inspection or for any questions

Images: pm me for photos I can't seen to uploan atm.

why did this car with 66,000kms that has never been boosted over stock 11psi and yet has a "boost tap", need a top end engine rebuild?

Stock boost on a sr20 is only 7psi...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...