Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 105
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Not too sure Joel, HKS dont have cores, they are a standard garret item - HKS only have proprietry on the comp and turb cover and compressor wheel.

I think it would be more likely to have something to do with turbine AR and comp wheel trim - bigger turbine AR will flow more, but will take longer to build boost, bigger comp wheel will flow more, but if too big could (in theory) result in a miss match to the turbine and result in surge. Always a trade somewhere.

The reason I said it was because he originally said he had a 0.68. I would like to know the exact spec differences to give a better idea of the comparison between the two. Without knowing all the specs, it would be useless comparing;)

At the end of the day, the only true way to compare would be on the same car, cos lots of things can make a difference. I noticed a considerable loss of power when I swapped my N1 exhaust for a nismo dual muffler one.

My big problem at the moment is that I want to try a bigger turbine AR, as I feel the 0.61 is maybe causing a bit too much back pressure. It is interesting that the HKS 3037 kit for RB25 uses a 0.87 AR. Might be worth giving it a try, but at well over $500-$750 a pop for the housing, I am not going to rush out and buy the full range to see the difference:D

Steve: I now have a .81 A/R Ex Housing and noticed a large difference in detenation(spelling?) levels. In my early stage I had the same tuning, same turbo specs apart from the bigger A/R ex housing and my detenation levels reduced by 1/3. I have put this down to less back pressure, less heat , and less cylinder back filling on cam overlap. Obviously my turd is no were near standard now.

The spool up difference from .6 to .8 A/R was hardly noticable. Smoother maybe.

Great results GTS-t VSPEC!! Wow, it really seems that the GT30 turbos are responding well on the RB25s. 270kW@wheels on 13psi is a $#!T load!! :) Sure you'll be having traction problems. The only problem I see with comparing dyno figures is that they can vary from dyno to dyno. Also depends on the air temperature of the day. For example, the JUN s15 equipped with T88 (in Perth I think) produced something like 700rwhp on one dyno, only to get 550rwhp on another dyno. Something like that anyway, I read it in a Fast Fours mag. Anyway, point being that there is a difference between all dynos. To compare two cars you really need to dyno both on the same dyno on the same day. In the end, it's really how fast you run the 1/4 mile which is going to judge how quick your car is. Still, very impressive figures to both! ;)

I think most companies use the Dyno Dynamics dyno (?). Very nice results, will be interesting to see how the turbo fares as the boost is increased. It does seem to produce more power than Steve's HKS one, but it also seems to have more turbo lag. Maybe there is a noticeable difference between the Garrett and HKS turbos afterall?

Once you guys start increasing the boost, then we should be able to see what happens. I've heard that HKS turbos are more efficient at a higher boost level (eg 1.5bar), and that they spool up faster. I've heard that Garrett turbos are more efficient at lower boost (eg 1.0bar). Guess time will tell...keep up the good work!!!

Steve: Do you know what are the differences between an HKS turbo and a Garrett turbo? I heard that the cores and turbine trims are the same. The only difference are the compressor housings and compressor trims. Are the exhaust housings also different? Or is it in size where they are different? Example: I know the GT3037S can have a 0.73A/R exhaust housing, and I don't think the Garrett GT30 has the same size?

The reason I ask is because I have a broken GT3037S turbo. It has a damaged turbine wheel and I am going to try get someone to repair it - either GCG or Garrett in Sydney. If the turbine wheel is replaced with a Garrett turbine wheel, could my repaired turbo still be classified as an HKS one? Meaning that the turbine wheels are the same for both Garrett and HKS GT30 cored turbos?

Originally posted by BOOSTD

Steve: I now have a .81 A/R Ex Housing and noticed a large difference in detenation(spelling?) levels. In my early stage I had the same tuning, same turbo specs apart from the bigger A/R ex housing and my detenation levels reduced by 1/3. I have put this down to less back pressure, less heat , and less cylinder back filling on cam overlap. Obviously my turd is no were near standard now.

The spool up difference from .6 to .8 A/R was hardly noticable. Smoother maybe.

Thats the thing I am thinking, back pressure with a turbo is the big killer, and I am a bit worried with larger cams, therefore more overlap, things could get worse rather than better.

But if you reckon there is bugger all difference in spoolup time between 0.6 and 0.8, I think I might have to speed up the swap.

Smoother onto boost would be good, cos at the moment its bloody violent. I tried upping the boost to 1.2bar on the previous tune and holey fark, 120kmh - 4th gear and only 1/4 to1/3 throttle and the bloody thing got severly bent out of shape, thank god no cars were beside me.

RS500, if it were a 0.73, or maybe a 0.87 ( but I think I would have to give it a spin first) I would be tempted.

But 1.01, now why would you be trying to off load that??????

EVOIV, as far as I know HKS have proprietry on the housings and the comp wheel, which is why no one can buy them except HKS.

As far as I know, exhaust wheel and cartridge can be purchased direct from garret, or be ordered in by your local turbo shop.

Anybody out there got a 0.73 or 0.87 3037 turbine housing they want to off load:D

Steve: As you know, I have a GT3037S in bits at the moment. Compressor and Turbine housing, and core. The exhaust housing is a 0.73A/R. I am still not sure what I am going to do with this turbo. I do want to get it repaired eventually, if I can get my lazy ass into gear :P Also, not sure if it can be fixed - it will have to go to GCG or Garrett first for an inspection. But hopefully it can be as I think the turbine wheel is the only damaged part. If it does get fixed, I may opt to put on a larger turbine housing (sourced from where I don't know?). So then the 0.73A/R might be up for grabs. Maybe I should buy the 1.01A/R of RS500? :)

i might be lining up a buy off a friend for a GT3037 with a 1.01 exhaust housing, so if i get it, i'll swap ya no probs

yeah, if this works out and i sell my current turbo, i'm ready to move into the ball-bearing world :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
×
×
  • Create New...