Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by Steve

Emissions test are a bloody joke anyway.  If a car is not passing an emissions test, one of the ways to fix the problem is to inject air into the cat - holden have been doing it for years, pretty sure nissan did it too on SR20s.

Are you sure it's air and not methane gas from the driver's seat :)

Found out some interesting news about emissions testing. Aparrently this place that does the $350 test isnt being accepted by regency, but they are still trying to fight that one.

BUT, they will accept emissions tests done by NSW govt, or at mitsubishi. Who cares? I have been told that it is free in NSW vs $3k at mitsubishi, just got to book your car in???? Would be interesting to see how hard it would be to get in, cos if it costs $3k here, NSW suddenly looks like a fantastic place to take a holiday.

Will have to investigate further....

There is a guy in adelaide who can do an emissions test on a dyno, but the accuracy is not high enough for the RTA. To get the accuracy they require involves mitsubishi and $3k.

I was also told that the NSW govt provides free emissions testing, that is accepted in SA. Wonder how hard it would be to get that done? Even if you have to grease the wheels a bit, it would be alot cheaper than going to mitsubishi.

Found out some info on emissions testing

http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/environment/airq...lemissions.html

There is a free call number to book the vehicle in, and it meets australian standards, free test and takes up to 1/2 hour.

I checked with the guys from regency, and they will pass a car with a larger EDIT turbo if it has an emissions report - probably why you are in your situation 9krpm?

I think I will have to check to see if they accept NSW engineering reports too:)

do you need an engineers report for the mods + an emission test? or just the emission test?

can you recommend an engineer? A friend of mine recommended 'BC Tonkin & Associates'... apparently they are on the Transport SA list of recommended engineers. D. Potts (australian Technology PTY LTD) is on the list as well... is he dodgy or is it just the emission test he does is that is unacceptible?

I've been told all I need is an emission test.

Then I was told to get an engineering report after the emsission test and bring the car for Regency to check. This is like another $70 down the drain after

-?$3K for emssion check

-??$$$ for engineering report

Why does Regency need an engineering report? Couldn't they check/assess the safety them self? If they can't then why do they need to check the car after an expert made a report/safety check aldready?

Toooooooo many loop hole for the government to make money!!!!! STOP IT I DON'T LIKE IT :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
    • You can probably scrub the rust with a toothbrush or something. After you get the rust off flush well with water to neutralize and you will probably want to also use a fuel tank sealer to keep it from rusting again.
    • The sodium citrate solution is designed to buffer the citric acid to keep it from attacking metal quite so much, the guy that came up with that recipe did a ton of testing on how much metal loss occurs over time and it's nothing crazy unless you forget about it for months:   
×
×
  • Create New...