Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Over the last year and a half I have been engaged in the rebuild of my R34. During this time we have spent a lot of time and effort adding small touches here and there to make things a bit more unique. Some are specific, and others are more generic (i.e. for everyone)

One such part that we came up with was a replacement diagram for the R34GTT Fuse Box cover. With a car that is now 10 years old, general wear and tear has seen that yellow diagram fade / disappear. Time for a replacement - something which adds those so-called style points whilst keeping functionality. Abo Bob already had a 1:1 scale image of the diagram so we borrowed that for this project, thanks Adam!

Business Details:

Ann Harris

K-Bar Laser Etching

http://k-bar.com.au/

All our initial designs involving this technology were sent to numerous suppliers around Australia. Ann came back with the lowest quote from everyone, and was happy to assist with material choice, artwork and other recommendations. In total, around 20 suppliers were contacted and these guys were by far the best deal for our purposes (i.e. once off designs and productions)

What's on Offer

Well I'll let the pictures below do all the talking and you can decide for yourselves. Please excuse the blacked out sections, they are specific to our project and we would like to keep that private for now. Also note that the avatar image, along with the "SATANIC" text in the top right corner will be removed in the Group Buy Version.

post-19974-1220098270_thumb.jpg post-19974-1220098289_thumb.jpg post-19974-1220098310_thumb.jpg post-19974-1220098323_thumb.jpg post-19974-1220098337_thumb.jpg post-19974-1220098350_thumb.jpg post-19974-1220098362_thumb.jpg post-19974-1220098380_thumb.jpg post-19974-1220098478_thumb.jpg post-19974-1220098497_thumb.jpg post-19974-1220098510_thumb.jpg post-19974-1220098528_thumb.jpg post-19974-1220098549_thumb.jpg

Specifics

Material: 3mm Metalgraph Plus (brushed stainless look)

Etching: All etching will be in BLACK (no exceptions)

Holes: No mounting holes will be included; please drill your own else just use strong adhesive

Care: Minimal care is required, this material is scratch proof - an odd wipe wouldn't hurt though

Pricing:

I only got my stuff finalized and delivered on Friday so I don't have a confirmed pricing yet (Ann still working this out). On initial conversation I was aiming around $50 per unit delivered - my unit cost was $85.00 FYI. This will be based on a production of 10-20 units, the final number is still to be confirmed.

Confirmed:

1. Abo Bob

  • Replies 108
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

OK so the following are confirmed:

1. Abo Bob

2. DECIM8

3. mrgtt

4. R34GTFOUR

In reply to the last post, I am planning to just have the following text on the top right corner (should suit everyone)

(first line) NISSAN

(second line) SKYLINE

(third line) R34

As stated, there will be ONE design to be made in bulk, will not do individual designs for group buy (too complicated, if you're that keen, contact me via PM). So for you who are interested, please come to some concensus as to what you would like (limit to 4 lines of text)

The section where my avatar image is, will just be blank.

Stan

News just in boys n girls:

Quote for Stanley Choi

Laser Etched Metalgraph Fuse Box Cover – approximate size 160mm x 208mm.

Quantity of 10 - $65.00 each Total $650.00

Quantity of 20 - $60.00 each Total $1,200.00

All prices are GST inclusive, include freight and minor changes where required from your original plate.

Any major change to the Fuse Box Cover will incur an additional charge.

All quotes valid for 30 Days.

If you would like to place an order, please call.

Regards,

Ann Harris.

Business Manager.

There you have it, the final pricing on these plates. It's a bit more than my projected $50, but it's still a saving of $20-$25.00 on the plate which is about 25%. Turnaround time is very good with these guys, once order is placed it is usually made same day and sent out following.

Thanks

Stan

65 still isnt too bad im fine with that price, with the r34 in that square i wouldnt mind having a logo of choice but i recon it would just be easier if we all got R34 what does everyone else think?

Im fine with $65

As for the layout im happy with everything mentioned as far as R34 taking up the box where you symbol was but could i have

First line: NISSAN

Second line: SKYLINE

Third line: GTFOUR instead of GT-T (obviously because mine isnt a gt-t :huh: )

I dont mind paying a little extra for the headache for the last line purely because gt-t would look silly in mine :D

1. Abo Bob

2. DECIM8

3. mrgtt

4. R34GTFOUR

5. jeffboyracer

6. slats

R34GTFOUR, I'll talk to Ann about it - shouldn't be a problem I hope.

So it's the following for the right corner:

NISSAN

SKYLINE

R34 GT-T or R34 GTFOUR

Still need concensus on the left box... else it'll remain blank and you can get your own little vinyls made up to stick there :huh:

Well im obviously in for R34

Id prefer it written in the font "IMPACT". Ive actually replicated what it will look like below. Most dominant feature.

R34

Personally I dont care what it says in the top corner.

I wouldn't mind

NISSAN

SKYLINE R34

RACE BRED 2.5L

Then you can have them all printed the same to suit all.

Edited by DECIM8

Yep I am in too.

A better idea would be to have the GT logo in the square where your avatar is - as per the shield design badge on the front guards - that would look awesome! The GT logo is common to all turbo and non-turbo models, so would be perfect and look great.

1. Abo Bob

2. DECIM8

3. mrgtt

4. R34GTFOUR

5. jeffboyracer

6. slats

7. Nightcrawler

Current Group Buy Price: $65.00 all inclusive.

Current Design:

[TOP RIGHT]

NISSAN

SKYLINE

R34 GT-T or R34 GTFOUR

[AVATAR BOX]

R34 or GT Logo

Will need a vector of the GT Logo, otherwise that won't work.

1. Abo Bob

2. DECIM8

3. mrgtt

4. R34GTFOUR

5. jeffboyracer

6. slats

7. Nightcrawler

8. raps86

Current Group Buy Price: $65.00 all inclusive.

Current Design:

[TOP RIGHT]

NISSAN

SKYLINE

R34 GT-T or R34 GTFOUR

[AVATAR BOX]

R34 or GT Logo

Will need a vector of the GT Logo, otherwise that won't work.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...